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- Buick Compound Carburetion
- Buick F-263 Head/Gasket Swaps, effects on compression
- Straight Eight Engine Specifications
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263 Head X-Sections
    - Building a High Performance Straight Eight
- Buick Straight Eight Lifter Adjustment
- Straight Eight Intake Manifold X-Sections
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Thread: Anything new from the straight 8 hot rodders?

  1. Pre-war 248's had cast-iron pistons, while postwar engines had aluminum pistons.

  2. #532
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    old engines

    Quote Originally Posted by Buick Guy View Post
    We're getting too old to wait until somebody else decides to build a head for a 74 year old 'antique' engine. If this was going to be easy somebody would have done it already. We're just having fun. That's what Salt racing is all about. Be safe, have fun, and go fast.
    Doug
    I'm with you on that! My feelings exactly. Racing old engines to see what they can do when they'r way past thier glory days, is whats its all about, thats challenge enough. say does anybody know where an old Nash straight 8 is stashed ???

  3. #533
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    Try Bruce Crower.
    Doug

  4. #534
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    Were would one obtain such stems and valves such as the ones you mentioned..I def want this upgrade.
    I'm having my second block machined, should be ready by mid next week..this time I had it acid dipped just to be cautious. Will do the same with the head once my limit factor allows it...Im also thinking of milling .020 of the head and block my self, this time thru Dougens machine shop in riverside. I was told and heard there the go to guys for all the local racing nuts..they do a good job at that..so ill have them rebuild my head as well..I'm going to practice my porting as mentioned on this scrap head before it goes to the recycling bin..I have other intention for the block as brought up by alleycat...will have to look closer in to that for all I have access to is an angle grinder and saw-saw.
    My expectations are to be able to drive on socals fast lane..nothing more.



    Quote Originally Posted by telekenfun View Post
    If you read through this forum, you'll find a lot of great ideas of what to do. I would recommend starting with a 263. Find a good one, complete as possible. You can use your compound manifolds on it. Don't go crazy with milling unless you want to get custom made pistons. I didn't cut but .020 from each surface just to straighten things up. Bore it as big as you can but be carefull there. Make sure your block never had a mud ring around the water jacket because that causes pinholes reaching into the cylinder walls. If you're going more than .030-.040, you better have it sonic tested. Primarily checking for wall thickness and core shift. A good block can get you out to 300 cubes but I haven't found a block that good yet. More than larger displacement you need to make it breath, The real improvement will be in the combustion chamber and valve bowls. You can get very little increase in port runner size because of the thin walls. Just smooth them up and do the port matching on the head and the manifolds. Get rid of the stock valve guides, install 5/16" guides with tapered stems where they protrude into the bowl, use 1.60 & 1.40 valves with 5/16" stems. Do a lot of porting work around the guides, streamlining the flow, remove restrictions and open the bowls in a tapered fashion, matching up to the new larger valve seats. Too big of a bowl on the valve side of the guide and you'll lose intake velocity. Carefully ease and round the short turns in the ports and in your intake manifold if you can reach them.
    Get some custom pistons made if you can afford them, They'll want a mold of your combustion chamber and the "cc" volume if they're going to do it right. Try for a .040 fit to the chamber on the back side of the piston away from the sparkplug to shorten the flame travel and provide as much squish and quench as possible. Don't go past 9.0:1 unless you want to use racing fuel.
    You'll need a reground camshaft with as much lift as you can get. The trouble here is: the base circle can only be reduced so much and there isn't much material to cut the new profile for way longer durations and narrower lobe centers. Durations of around 200 degrees @ .050 is about all you can get without making the cam so skinny there is a risk of it breaking. The solution to this is to use higher ratio rockers and less lift at the cam. A 200 degree cam is about all that is needed since these are low rev motors no matter what. 5000 RPM max. 2-4 grand is what you're going to use most of the time unless it's going to be a race motor.
    Your combound intake manifold is about as good as you can get if you clean it up and smooth the short turns other than making a custom tube equivilent. Their runner length is sufficiently long to creat a pretty good ram effect in the mid band. Get a couple of AUUVB-267 Aerotype Strombergs from 53 Buick V8s. They are cheap and slightly larger than the AA1 & AA16s. They are about all the motor can really take and too many people make the mistake of using too much carb. You'll need to make adapters from 1/2" aluminum for the four bolt bases but it will use two of the existing studs, really simple. The Aerotype Strombergs use many of the same parts as "97"s so jets and stuff are easy to get. Eliminate the progressive linkage and run them syncronous.
    You also need to do distributor work to delay the advance and increase the advance amount as the centrifical will only get you 10 degrees and you'll need nearly twice that much.
    EGGE Machine has all the stuff you'll need to do a stock rebuild if that's the way you decide to go, and it will probably be around $2500 when you're all done if you assemble the engine yourself. Expect to spend another $5 grand if you want to embarrass a 57chev with a Powerpac.
    I hope this gives you some more ideas and good luck with whatever you endeavour. TELEKENFUN

  5. #535
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    Jenz
    '38 Special Coupe, pimped 263 cui
    ---- LIFTERS CC GERMANY ----

  6. #536

    Fuel Pumps ID numbers? I have fuel pumps I do not know what they fit.

    Hi to all !

    I have 2 fuel pumps marked 9763 one has a short arm and the other has a long arm. the short arm is tagged 1953 Buick Series 50and 70 and
    1954 to 1955 All D/A. I do not know who put this tag on it the long arm fuel pump is not tagged but is also stamped 9763.

    Does anyone know what car these fuel pumps fit? I would appreciate any info.

    I have a 1953 Special with the straight 8 and need a fuel pump 9761. I do have two of these but think they need to be rebuilt.

    rpmbo

  7. #537
    Quote Originally Posted by 32special View Post
    Were would one obtain such stems and valves such as the ones you mentioned..I def want this upgrade.
    I'm having my second block machined, should be ready by mid next week..this time I had it acid dipped just to be cautious. Will do the same with the head once my limit factor allows it...Im also thinking of milling .020 of the head and block my self, this time thru Dougens machine shop in riverside. I was told and heard there the go to guys for all the local racing nuts..they do a good job at that..so ill have them rebuild my head as well..I'm going to practice my porting as mentioned on this scrap head before it goes to the recycling bin..I have other intention for the block as brought up by alleycat...will have to look closer in to that for all I have access to is an angle grinder and saw-saw.
    My expectations are to be able to drive on socals fast lane..nothing more.
    For valves we used cut down small block chevy exhaust valves. For guides, any hep valve job shop should know how to look up a guide to fit this criteria. John Beck @ Pro Machine who has been mentioned a few years ago on this forum did this mod to "scotch"s 263. That is where I got my start. If you read through this forum from the beginning you find those threads and a lot more. "Scotch" even included pictures of the head and valves. I believe I also post a thread on how I modified my rocker assembly to increase rocker ratio to 1.66:1 about a year and a half ago. Best of luck with all your endeavors, TELEKENFUN.

  8. #538
    Quote Originally Posted by Buick Guy View Post
    Thanks, Bob. Yes you hit it. Pushrod interference was an issue. He also has to be able to get the head of the welder in between the tubes to seal things up. The area behind the tubes is a water jacket and will have to be pressure tested for coolant leaks. If people watch the progress they will see it is a puzzle and the pieces have a specific order of assembly. His statement to me yesterday was a classic. "If Burt Monro [World's Fastest Indian] can build connecting rods from a Caterpillar axle with a hacksaw and a file, I can build a head". Have fun watching the progress.
    Doug
    Doug, I saw a program on the SPEED channel recently called "TRANSLOGIC" that featured a program called "TEACH SHOP" in San Francisco that offers all the facillities you need to build your head short of a foundery to cast it. They offer monthly and annual membership. I don't know about the cost, but the facillity has all the "cad design computers and instruction you will need as well as 3D printers, CNC machines as well instruction to build anything you may conceive. The show even featured a car that a fellow designed and built there. You may want to look into it as a solution to a 16 port head. Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors, TELEKENFUN.

  9. #539
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    But we live in Montana. Might be a long commute.
    Doug

  10. #540
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    thanks for the Info and source for above mentioned. .I'm going to start my search right now.
    One more question tho.when you say small block chevy, you mean 350?.I'm not familiar with chevy blocks at all. And I ask beacuse ill be buying my valves from egge and I'm sure they will want more info other than small block chevy..


    Quote Originally Posted by telekenfun View Post
    For valves we used cut down small block chevy exhaust valves. For guides, any hep valve job shop should know how to look up a guide to fit this criteria. John Beck @ Pro Machine whinfo and has been mentioned a few years ago on this forum did this mod to "scotch"s 263. That is where I got my start. If you read through this forum from the beginning you find those threads and a lot more. "Scotch" even included pictures of the head and valves. I believe I also post a thread on how I modified my rocker assembly to increase rocker ratio to 1.66:1 about a year and a half ago. Best of luck with all your endeavors, TELEKENFUN.

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