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- Buick F-263 Head/Gasket Swaps, effects on compression
- Straight Eight Engine Specifications
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263 Head X-Sections
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Thread: Anything new from the straight 8 hot rodders?

  1. #511
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    Amazing thats all .... It sounds good that this old Engines go faster and faster .

    Wish you all a lot Fun .

    Jenz
    '38 Special Coupe, pimped 263 cui
    ---- LIFTERS CC GERMANY ----

  2. #512
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    I had a stupid idea ...
    It seems that one of the main difficulty to design a brand new aluminium head is creating the water jackets for the pattern.
    So ... What about an air cooled head ?

  3. #513
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    With the stock cooling system, coolant flows from the block into the head, and from there, back to the radiator (the top rad connection is the engine outlet). If you used a head with no coolant passages, the block would need to be redesigned in order to provide a flow path.

    Ray

  4. #514
    You might be able to get away with it if you had an aluminum head(like a VW) because it dissipates the heat faster than steel or cast iron does. You would never be able to keep a cast iron or steel head cool enough to stop pre-ignition because of too hot of a combustion chamber temperature. If you've ever run an engine hot enough that it wouldn't shut off after you turned off the key, thats what would happen, the chamber temps are so hot, they pre-ignite the gas and it has a mind of its own at that point.
    Last edited by CNC-Dude; 03-19-2013 at 07:26 PM.
    There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

  5. #515
    it would work if it were set up as a Crower 6 cycle:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Six-str...-stroke_engine

    functionally, the Crower engine moves the 'water cooling' function to the inside of the combustion chamber.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  6. #516
    Running some other type of fuel like alcohol or nitro would work also if the rules allowed it.
    There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

  7. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by raycow View Post
    With the stock cooling system, coolant flows from the block into the head, and from there, back to the radiator (the top rad connection is the engine outlet). If you used a head with no coolant passages, the block would need to be redesigned in order to provide a flow path.

    Ray
    Of course.
    But running 2 external pipes for the coolant may be easy.
    Maybe we would need a turbine, like VW or Porsche. Quite ugly.

  8. #518

    248 help.anybody got a book on hopping these up?

    Hello all, I have a 41 248 with the 2 carb setup and would like to rebuild it and hop it up while I'm at it. Is it a waste of time? It seems like from what I have read maybe I should start with a 263. Does anyone here have published data for what to do? pistons? how much to mill head/block? cam specs? I'm not a real motor head, but would like to tackle this motor and improve upon it rather than just rebuilding. Is there anybody out there that specializes in hopping up straight eights that would be a good place to have a engine built for you? thanks, Jeff

  9. #519

    Team Buick is the book!

    If you read through this forum, you'll find a lot of great ideas of what to do. I would recommend starting with a 263. Find a good one, complete as possible. You can use your compound manifolds on it. Don't go crazy with milling unless you want to get custom made pistons. I didn't cut but .020 from each surface just to straighten things up. Bore it as big as you can but be carefull there. Make sure your block never had a mud ring around the water jacket because that causes pinholes reaching into the cylinder walls. If you're going more than .030-.040, you better have it sonic tested. Primarily checking for wall thickness and core shift. A good block can get you out to 300 cubes but I haven't found a block that good yet. More than larger displacement you need to make it breath, The real improvement will be in the combustion chamber and valve bowls. You can get very little increase in port runner size because of the thin walls. Just smooth them up and do the port matching on the head and the manifolds. Get rid of the stock valve guides, install 5/16" guides with tapered stems where they protrude into the bowl, use 1.60 & 1.40 valves with 5/16" stems. Do a lot of porting work around the guides, streamlining the flow, remove restrictions and open the bowls in a tapered fashion, matching up to the new larger valve seats. Too big of a bowl on the valve side of the guide and you'll lose intake velocity. Carefully ease and round the short turns in the ports and in your intake manifold if you can reach them.
    Get some custom pistons made if you can afford them, They'll want a mold of your combustion chamber and the "cc" volume if they're going to do it right. Try for a .040 fit to the chamber on the back side of the piston away from the sparkplug to shorten the flame travel and provide as much squish and quench as possible. Don't go past 9.0:1 unless you want to use racing fuel.
    You'll need a reground camshaft with as much lift as you can get. The trouble here is: the base circle can only be reduced so much and there isn't much material to cut the new profile for way longer durations and narrower lobe centers. Durations of around 200 degrees @ .050 is about all you can get without making the cam so skinny there is a risk of it breaking. The solution to this is to use higher ratio rockers and less lift at the cam. A 200 degree cam is about all that is needed since these are low rev motors no matter what. 5000 RPM max. 2-4 grand is what you're going to use most of the time unless it's going to be a race motor.
    Your combound intake manifold is about as good as you can get if you clean it up and smooth the short turns other than making a custom tube equivilent. Their runner length is sufficiently long to creat a pretty good ram effect in the mid band. Get a couple of AUUVB-267 Aerotype Strombergs from 53 Buick V8s. They are cheap and slightly larger than the AA1 & AA16s. They are about all the motor can really take and too many people make the mistake of using too much carb. You'll need to make adapters from 1/2" aluminum for the four bolt bases but it will use two of the existing studs, really simple. The Aerotype Strombergs use many of the same parts as "97"s so jets and stuff are easy to get. Eliminate the progressive linkage and run them syncronous.
    You also need to do distributor work to delay the advance and increase the advance amount as the centrifical will only get you 10 degrees and you'll need nearly twice that much.
    EGGE Machine has all the stuff you'll need to do a stock rebuild if that's the way you decide to go, and it will probably be around $2500 when you're all done if you assemble the engine yourself. Expect to spend another $5 grand if you want to embarrass a 57chev with a Powerpac.
    I hope this gives you some more ideas and good luck with whatever you endeavour. TELEKENFUN

  10. #520
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    Just cruising thru all the comments and info on how to increase power on a straight eight. So heres my cents worth for both large and small Buick straight 8,s.
    'TURBO or SUPERCHARGE'. thats it! gggg
    Last edited by 39CENT; 04-06-2013 at 06:01 AM.

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