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I believe the heads are interchangeable...the intake is wider on the 340, so that won't work, and the exhaust manifolds should be the same, but I am not 100% on that.

I don't think anything's wrong with 190 if you never get it cooler...that's a pretty normal engine temp.

You'll get a huge debate on this with no definitive answer...I never use lead in any of my old cars, but some people would totally disagree. If you aren't running the car too hard, no lead will...

You'll get a lot of disagreement on oil thanks to the zinc/phosphorous debate. I use diesel oil because of that...Tractor Supply has the Traveler brand 15W-40, which is an SL rated oil, or I...

The heater hoses are 5/8"...at least on my '53...I don't see why they'd be any different on a '50...you should measure your outlets to be sure.

All Dynaflows has hydraulic, sticks had solids...this was from, I believe, '49 onward. Anyway, I've used Rislone on sticky lifters with very good results...very recently too.

I've never even looked on mine, but is there a rubber hose hooking the steel line to the modulator on the trans.? Is there even a modulator on the ST300? I haven't messed with mine at all *knock on...

I think I'd hook up the coolers when you get a chance, even though you've had good luck without it! I guess it isn't too urgent...Before you hook them up you probably want to get under there and...

Yeah, there are about 30 miles of heater hoses under an old Buick! They go to the underseat heater, defroster, and transmission on Dynaflow...Do you have a shop manual for your Buick, 1LOW? If not,...

Also, the Dynaflow is cooled by antifreeze! Heater hoses go to the trans cooler.

Don't be surprised to find about an inch of sludge in there! Don't forget to clean the pickup screen too...

Oh yeah, the 4 front bolts have cutouts in the frame to get to...the two on either side of them suck...time to get out an end wrench and take the long way...they'll come, but it's not fun!

You can get it without disassembling any steering linkage...You will need to turn the crank so the front counterweights aren't protruding and it will take some finagling, but it'll come...the hard...

This thread may help you...

http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12959

Oh man that sucks...that was such a sweet sounding car...sorry about what happened. Any spare blocks lying around?

They're vertical...

No. Basically, the secondary plates are mechanical, and there is a weighted air valve above the plates that opens as air demand is needed.

Those are headers...I think the previous price estimate was about accurate...try the classifieds here, buickclub.org, and v8buick.com...

You definitely need a spacer under the carb with today's gas...I imagine almost anything with a carburetor heat soaks at shut off to some extent now. 215 isn't much to worry about, especially at...

Hmmmmm. Possible vacuum leak that doesn't show up until the choke is open? You might be looking at a dirty fuel tank, plugged carburetor, etc, but it's strange it only runs bad when warm.

I actually unwound the bimetal spring to hold it closed all the time, but it would be open when cold, closed when hot.

263s had hydraulic if you had a Dynaflow. Page 7 of that document shows you how to do it...I HIGHLY recommend taking the rocker arm assembly apart and cleaning it and the rocker arms out...they are...

Cool--I love when it's the cheap and easy fixes!

Make sure you use gaskets when reassembling your manifold after taking off that heat riser, or at least high temp silicone...there's a special torque sequence too...did you take the manifolds off the...

Check your heat riser valve to make sure it's not stuck open and boiling the gas in the carb. Maybe try pulling off your gas cap to make sure the tank is venting.