it makes no difference what the block/heads are made of......
all we are talking about here is the cam/lifters/valve gear....all of them need the zddp in the oil....even if the engine is a high...
Type: Posts; User: DocModisett
it makes no difference what the block/heads are made of......
all we are talking about here is the cam/lifters/valve gear....all of them need the zddp in the oil....even if the engine is a high...
the best thing to do is just cut the heads off the screws and remove the fuel line saving the brackets.... then grind or file the stub of the screws flush with the frame... next take a sharp pointed...
Well,,, it is good that you find the problem now rather than out on the side of the road....:D
some fuel pumps can be rebuilt and some cannot.... and some of them on the old cars have a vacume...
Dang,,, me and Ray thinks alike.....:laugh_4:Yep, you should drive it and thoroughly check everything out... but be very carefull the first time you do,, because the brake cyls. will freeze up on a...
yep, everything that Ray says.... and never ever replace the points without cleaning and lubing the cam with just a small bead of grease... that will keep the cam from rusting and make the rubbing...
On a 67 the dash wiring is a circuit board like Ray says,,, and I might add they dont go out very much.... the old mechanics test is to turn the switch on and then remove the wire plug from the...
I am with David and Ray on this one.... it is cheaper and easier to just fix the Dyna than to tackle the closed driveshaft monster..... and convert it to another trans and open driveshaft....and,,,,...
On cars of that vintage, a lot of times the ''no reverse'' condition is a result of a broken reverse band.... or the adjustment being so loose on the reverse band that the trans wont back up.......
Thanks , Zink,,,for the compliment.... i thought of that mod one night at about 2 am.... had woke up and was just laying there thinking about there not being any performance single carb manifolds...
And,,, I might add,,, a few years back the oil companies took the zinc out of the engine oil.... and ALL ENGINES WITH FLAT TAPPET CAM SYSTEMS MUST HAVE IT FOR THE CAM TO SURVIVE..... be double sure...
364 intake manifolds are harder to find than the 401/425's.... but when you do find one,,,, before you put it on,,, take a look over at v8buick.com/da nailhead/ Doc's dual plane&port matching...
Yep,, he can use any 364 intake.....
Well, I typed up a bunch of stuff and then lost it,,, :clonk:
Most inline engines have a ''divorced'' intake,,, that is the intake is not part of the head and bolts to the head.... the exception...
Consider a log type design made from sq. 3-4 in. sq tubing, with a heater chamber running the length of the floor to warm it enough to make this cat pee gas vaporize.... and top it with a holley...
In the old days that was called, ''blowing the smut out of them''....
The very best thing to clean rocker arm stuff in is pure simple green... dont dilute it at all.... break the rocker arm assemblies down, submerge the parts in the SG for 12 or more hours and then...
About the same,,, a carb can do with as little as 4 psi, if the volume is good,,,, I have in the past installed a fuel pressure regulator just ahead of the carb inlet to cut the pressure down.... but...
I know where there is a 63 special in a bone yard,,, complete,,, any parts the same???? I know the bodys aint....
Well, the intake valve is the one that really needs a seal.... buick ran the exhaust valve 'wet' because it runs hotter than the intake and has no suction on it... the intake valve seal that was used...
First,,, before you do anything,,, run a good compression test.... make a diagram of the engine cylinders and write the numbers down in the order they occur.... the results will tell you a lot about...
Dave,,,if another fella can do the job,,, so can you,,,, remember knowledge is power.... and some knowledge has to be gained by actually doing the project... do all you can , then what you dont have...
Stick to stock buick clearances.....
Well if we could see the whole chart it would help.... cant see the right side of the chart for the advertisements......
Most likely the feed pipe to the cars heater , or the return pipe..... no,,, looks like I see the feed pipe just above the fuel lines, on the thermostat housing.... that would make it the return...
I think you are going to run into the closed driveshaft thing.... easier to just find a correct year engine....you gotta buy a engine anyway.....