Is the starter from the straight 8? Is there also a crankshaft adapter? Is the converter the lock-up type from the 200-r4? These questions need answers to make any suggestions. Sounds like fun though!
Type: Posts; User: BigDonno
Is the starter from the straight 8? Is there also a crankshaft adapter? Is the converter the lock-up type from the 200-r4? These questions need answers to make any suggestions. Sounds like fun though!
To study this we have to know if the actuator runs on vacuum or electric then if it's remote with cable back at the hand control.The flashing light shows its out of close loop.
The 1964 Buick manual for 4300 Skylark head bolt torque is 65 to 70 ft. lb. All 3/8 screws into the heads are limited torque from 10 to 15 ft. lb. Rocker stands, intake and exhaust manifolds. My...
There was a class action settlement on these. My friend in Toms River NJ had a baby blue and white one with an orange 350. He got a check for $300 from GM.
The throttle plate just fits. It's the linkage and kick-down switch that takes some doing. 500 cfm is just fine.
I'm in the midst of puting a 200-r4 in my '41. Seams like the best way to modernize the '64 Lark. Same length as the old 200 and overdrive.
The OD 200-4R is the best, a shoe in. If the oil is black you probably need rings and maybe pistons. My original bearings and crank are great. Get timing chain, gears and oil pump kit. Timing cover...
The real problem - Did the converter go back and tear up the pump?
How did it get under the tree and is the motor free.
You have all the comforts with that nice pad. Keep plugging.
Averaging the whole bearing surface with a mic better discribes the bearing requirement.
A new gasket system is also needed. The aluminum is going to expand .035" over the steel cover. A nice fat 1/4" round would be nice.
Dimmer switch could be shot or no grounds under the hood at the terminal strips.
The bumper will maintain its place among the jap cars.
There's nothing in the rule book that says all sizes must be exact. Look for odd marking characters on the caps. Some cranks are all over the place.
Mechanicals don't always work the way intended. Instabilities show up at the last minute and are fixed with weghts, mufflers, and resonators.
It's a filter/dryer and accumilator and essential to the system. A change over kit to R134a would include one. None of this is cheep. You can still get R12.
If the radio isn't stock then you need a filter like the old spark-plate type. The noise is comming in on your 12v.
I like the balanced opening of the back carb with the front one. How did you jet the back one?
Mistakes are always worth something. I plan on doing my '64 over soon. Is yours
11:1 compression? Auto trans? Did the cap come off? Piston still in bore? Valve fall in? Loose oil? Don't feal...
The reference list is missing the Carter carbs for 41 - 42. Both years are from Buick shop manuals.
1941 1942
Series ...
Just jets and spacing are different between series. The rear one has a 1" damper under it for cold starts. Any carb will sit high. The stock air cleaner adds only another 2". Don
I found a converted single output 12 - 6v. alternator and everything got better.
It's a breather. Old stuff is made different.
GMorse is on the right track. One side of the cable could be froze. Otherwise radius grind the shoes or replace them. The ignition switch may be in the no key needed position, try it. The start...