Cost to pull transmission
Hi Guys
Pretty sure my anti freeze leak on my 1950 Buick Special with a 248 is the rear freeze plug in the engine. Mechanic says the transmission needs to come out to get to it. Anyone have any idea how much it should cost to pull the transmission, fix the freeze plug and put it back in? I don't have the place to do it myself, so I'm going to have to pay someone to do it and I don't want to get screwed.
Any input would be GREATLY appreciated
Scott
Cost to pull transmission
There are several ways to approach a leak in the head on the rear of the head.
One case shows they measured the location and then drilled a hole in the firewall for access
The other recent suggestion was to get a soft plug with a bolt that tightens it. It is a tight fit, but perhaps a mechanic with experience on these old 8's might be the way to pursue.
Dropping the trans means droppping the whole rear end. Might be easier to pull the engine forward to gain access.:shield:
Cost to pull transmission
Well here's a consnesus of input I've received so far:
Most people tell me that if it's the rear freeze plug, it's going to require either a) pulling the engine, or b) pulling the transmission to fix it. I have heard from some people that pulling the transmission will not work because the freeze plug is too high up on the engine.
Another bit of input I've received is to cut a 4-6 inch hole in the firewall to access the freeze plug and replace it and then weld it back into place once it's fixed.
Yet another piece of advice is to put GM cooling tabs in and see if that stops the leak.
I've heard that if I pull the transmission it's going to be a huge expense because the rear end has to be pulled to get the transmission out.
Looking for any other input people may have or feel free to weigh in on the options listed above.
Thanks
Scott
cost to pull transmission
Hi guys, I received this reply today from someone on another board. Please take a look and let me know your input:
The freeze plug on that block is on the back of the cam shaft and covered by the bellhousing. So when looking at the engine it's on the passenger side just below the cover that covers the push-rods.
An expansion plug won't work.. there is only about 3/8" space behind the freeze plug and then you have a turning cam shaft.
Pulling the trans and rear end is NOT easy on one of those, did one a few weeks ago and they are made to stay in the car.. The 3 crossmembers are all in the way, some thin paper gaskets between everything.. messy to say the least.
Drilling a hole in the firewall won't work, unless you are planning to also drill a hole in the bellhousing/clutch/pressure plate or torque converter.
Pulling the engine is a lot of work on one of those, because the engine is so long and heavy you pretty much need an a-frame, cherry picker won't handle it too well. And it's hard to do with the hood on.
So I guess what I'm saying, no matter what you decide to do, it's going to be hard. My advise (and yes I've done this before) is to pull the engine.
I've attached a picture of a bare block so you can see where the freeze plug is. Mine is still out (it was leaking ;-)
One more thing I forgot to mention.. This motor has a chicken/egg problem that's no fun to work around. This is true for a manual car, not sure about the automatic trans setup. You can't remove the bellhousing with the flywheel in place and you can't remove the flywheel with the bellhousing on the engine.
The flywheel has to come of first as there are bolts behind it that hold the bellhousing on. The only way to take the flywheel of is while it's attached to the crankshaft. So, you have to pull the crankshaft/flywheel assembly (2 man job!!) before you pull the bellhousing and can get to the plug.
Replacing that freeze plug requires you to take the whole engine apart.
Also, if you are leaking coolant it's not the freeze plug at the back of the engine, which only holds in engine oil.