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263 Street Build
I doing up a 263 for a fellow. Just starting the tear down. The motor looked like a million bucks. We were to be disappointed.
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There are no through bolts into the head, there should be no sealant or lock-tite used on the head bolts!
When lifting the head off, glass beads started to flow...
Attachment 8230
Take a look at the head!
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If you are cleaning with glass, take some time and blow it out. I have a thermo cleaning system which uses steel shot for cleaning. It has a cycle which is supposed to allow the shot to work its way out, but you must always set the head or block on the shop floor and spend some time blowing it out and turning it over and blowing it out again!
A quick look at the valves look bad. Many of them are terribly "sunk", here is an bad intake on the right. It's a little late for me to as, but any comments on oversize valve choices. I have already got a set of sbc +0.200" I am figuring to cut down to size.
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Here is a shot of the cylinder bore:
Attachment 8235
It looks like it may have got a light scuff, maybe with a ball hone, no ridge reaming... A quick check shows as much as .010" of wear in parts of the cylinder!
Tomorrow I will pull the bottom end apart.
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Back when I worked for a living we never used glass beads on an engine. There is always a corner that you cannot see or find and oil will stay there after all the cleaning and glass beads will be attracted there. It does not take many beads to wreck a rebuild. My old bosses said there is a place for glass beading but not on the inside of an engine. I always remembered their advise.
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We chose another crank, had it ground 10/10 cleaned it up and balanced it. We chose to remove a couple of oil plugs. This allowed thorough cleaning of the oil holes. The plugs were then replaced with 1/8" pipe plugs. The plugs were set in blue loctite and peened.
Attachment 8449
The long crankshaft takes up a bit of room on the balancer!
Attachment 8450
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Bob,
Good luck on the build.
Pat
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Big Valves in a 263
I am probably going to post this and someone will come up with a much better valve choice, but here was my effort.
Doing a straight eight Buick 263 head, casting number 1340827.
Using Ford 351 valves.
Intake: Sealed Power, V2171.
Head Diameter 1.682"
Stem Diameter 0.3429"
Length 5.07"
Exhaust: Engine Tech V1771N
Head Diameter 1.457"
Stem Diameter 0.3413:
Lenth 5.071"
Target spacing between valve is 0.060"-0.065"
to get to this I reduced the intakes to about 1.660" and the exhausts to 1.440" Then to restore comfortable margins by remove about 0.010" from the valve seat and about 0.010" to form a back cut.
Attachment 8532
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Bob, how about reducing stem diameter of the valves to around a 1/4 inch. That would increase flow and less weight to move up and down. There should be some press in valve guides to make the conversion. These straight eights do not rev high enough to need more strength in the stems.
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I agree, I don't know if I would be comfortable going lest than about 5/16" stems, but everything helps. Original valves are 3/8" stems. I looked long enough and these were readily available and economical with 11/32" stems. There may be better ones, but I didn't look long enough to find them. If you know some numbers post them for others:)
The intakes were 107 grams, 3 grams heavier than OE
The exhausts were 97 grams, 3 grams lighter than OE
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Yes I agree with the 5/16 die. stem, I was not thinking very well when I referenced a 1/4 inch.
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Balanced the pistons and measured the domes.
Rotating is 558gms.
Reciprocating is 171gms
Domes are 9.5cc
Piston with pin are at 525gms
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Anybody had the courage to do some major material removal on their heads or blocks?
This article suggest you can take .175" off the head!
This one says it can be done, but cautions it may be wise to be more conservative.
What did you do?