And if so, can you install hydraulics in place of the solids, or are their block mods that need to be done for lifter oiling? Thanks!
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And if so, can you install hydraulics in place of the solids, or are their block mods that need to be done for lifter oiling? Thanks!
Yes, the 263 did come with either solids or hydraulics. I have no idea as to the rime or reason for it. Trans or comp has no bearing either. It seems that what ever lifter was on the table is what the engine got as it was coming down the line. Most, if not all, "moderen" engines have small lifter diamiters, like in the area of .700+, the str8 has 1". Small lifters have to be on the right cam. Big lifters are less fussy. It may be a possiability that lifters could be switched around with no ill effects. I have several of both cams, and have put them side by side, I can't tell a particle of difference. I've put them in blocks and dialed them in, no diff! And!, with only about 40lbs seat pressure, I doubt that lifter and cam pieces are going to go flying if the switch was made. alleycat
Hydraulic was supposed to be for the Dynaflow according to my 1950 shop manual.
in 1963 bought a 263 from stick shift granny,s car, and it had solids. If only I had put a higher rear gear in that 39' special, it wouldv been purrfect.
The blocks are probably the same. You should make sure that your rockers and pushrods are oiling good and not plugged up, because the oiling system is backward of a modern engine. The oil goes from the rocker shaft through the rocker and down the pushrod to the lifter. Kinda crazy by todays standards but it saves you from having to gun drill a really long hole ( 34 inches on a 320) down the lifter gallery. Also solid and hydraulic cams are not ground the same. The opening and closing ramps are different. This is not something that you can see with the naked eye. Solid lifters need to be on a cam that is ground for them and vice versa. Hydraulic cams are ground to be run without any valve lash so their opening ramps are ground accordingly. The opening ramp is made to take up the lash slowly for quiet operation and gentle starting acceleration, then the real lift curve starts. This is ground differently into a hydraulic cam, as their is no lash to take up. If you had to get something running to get off a deserted island you can interchange them. Put solids on a hydraulic cam and lash them at almost nothing, .001 or so. Or put hydraulics on a solid cam and lash them like the manual calls for ( which negates their self adjusting feature ). Not doing it like this brings the likely event of cam damage. So it can be done, but I wouldn't advise it. Your stock cam can be reground for either type of lifter. Just tell the cam grinder which one you want to use. So if ya want hydraulics a cam swap or regrind will be necessary. Have you priced a set of hydraulics lately? If you can even find them. You may have to find a used set and have them reconditioned. A few valve cover gaskets and a new set of feeler gauges starts looking pretty good! Let us know what happens.