Alex, were you able to find the engine production code letters on the block? There is some chance yours may be the low compression, regular gas, 2 bbl, code JS engine with 265 HP.
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Hi Todd,
thanks for your help.
If I really have to change the rear bulbs from the inside this will be very interesting. I saw a guy in a short film removing the rear light bezel from inside (3 screws). He taped two "lengthening pieces" (don't know the right expression) from a ratchet together and worked blind. I hope there is an other, easier way:D. I am waiting for my manual!
I did not find the motorcode. By now it's about 0 degrees Celsius in our hall and I'm waiting for warmer weather. But your picture will be helpful to find it.
Regards from cologne
Alen
He taped two "lengthening pieces" (don't know the right expression) from a ratchet together and worked blind.
"extension bar" in the States. the Brits probably have some goofy terminology i don't know about like "lorry" or "bonnet" or what have you.
https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F...utf-8&oe=utf-8
if you need to get the socket off axis of the extension bar, you want to use a "wobbly". this allows the socket to pivot up to ~7 degrees:
https://www.google.com/search?ei=dgZ...30.P3FMd75R3y4
Hello all,
I have some more questions. Speedometer and front direction signal does not work.
Does anyone know which actuating mechanism for the direction signal switch I need or maybe a part number? Only the actuator! The switch works.
Same question (name/number) for the "thing" in the automatic gearbox where the speedometer cable is fixed. Sorry, I don't know the name for it. If you untighten the screw you can take it out of the gearbox. Maybe the plastic gear wheel is broken. Speedometer cable is new, and the speedometer works when I turn the cable on the gearbox side with my fingers. One stupid question: If I remove this "thing" will all automatic oil get out of the gearbox?
Thanks once again!
Sorry for my English, hope you understand what I mean :-)
Regards
Alen
Update:
Today I managed to remove the "speedo gear/drive pinion" out of the gearbox. Half of the teeth are missing. The gearwheel ist white and has 18 teeth. There ist 18T written on it. Do I have to change the whole unit or can I remove only the gearwheel? Oil is still in the gearbox :D. Where can I get the parts?
Regards
Alen
Buick sold only the complete assembly as shown in your picture. Part number is 1352589 for the Speedometer Driven Gear. None of these could be found from an Internet search.
Luckily, the nylon gear is being reproduced. Here is one on eBay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...45844&_sacat=0
Another source is www.nwtparts.com
Here is the casing routing from the shop manual. Bends should be as gradual as possible.
Here is the exploded view of the steering column. I am not sure exactly which parts are required without knowing more about the symptoms. The directional signal actuator, item AL, is GM part number 1995843.
Thanks Todd,
very helpful informations and pictures! I will order the nylon gear.
Meanwhile I managed to "repair" the direction actuator. We will see how long it works, but in the moment it's ok. The movement from the actuator on the rod was to less. Therefore the switch didn't went in the end position and the right signal worked only in the rear. Fortunately by now I don't have to buy the actuator.
Regards
Alen
Hello all,
at least I managed to find the engine code. It's an JR engine with an Carter four barrel (AFB) carburetor.
Regards
Alen
That relates to a '63/401 cubic inch engine with the 4 bbl. carb. Rated at 325 HP @ 4400 rpm's & 445 t. lbs. of torque at 2800RPM's. Advertised compression ratio is 10.25-1. In reality closer to 9.75-1 or slightly less.
Tom T.