All input greatly appreciated
Quote:
Originally Posted by
raycow
Rjason, if the car were mine, and I wanted to get it back on the road for the least amount of work and $, here is what I would do:
Look for a 350 in good running condition. This is the most common small block Buick there is, and a lot of them are still around. The 350 will bolt to your stock mounts and to your present transmission. You may need to use the 350 flexplate, as I am not certain whether the 300 and 350 balance is the same. There are probably people in the small block forum who can tell you for sure.
This swap definitely won't be a bolt-in because you will have to cobble the exhaust for certain, and possibly some of the wiring, piping, and linkage as well. However, the swap will still be far easier than any big block, and even easier than a nailhead unless you can find a complete 64 nailhead car for a parts donor.
If your stock 300 mounts are bad and you can't find replacements for them, use the mounts and frame brackets that go with the 350. Remove the 300 brackets and lower the 350 into place with the mounts and frame brackets bolted onto it. Mark where the 350 brackets land on the crossmember and bolt or weld them in place as the situation calls for. The 350 was used in A, B, and X-bodies, so you have a very wide selection of frame brackets to choose from. With luck, you will be able to find a set that won't require any welding.
I know everyone has an opinion and there are surely people who will disagree with mine. However, I am suggesting this swap purely from the standpoint of practicality for a daily driver, not a tire burner.
Ray
Thanks Ray, but you're so practical.
Takes all the drama and excitement out.
Appreciate the thoughts on mounts as mounts for big blocks are sketchy these days and I think the block bolt holes may be similar.
Want the Sound and Fury of big cubes.
It just seems like we're trying to push a lot of Iron down the road.
I also happen to have 2 430s, one well built, and all the parts that could be a running 455, if you do the "High School rebuild." No bore, no new pistons, no turned crank, just lap the valves, put it together, maybe a cam and lifters because that's pretty cheap, do the right things to the oil pump and housing and find a decent carb.:bana:
If you aren't in too much of a hurry Jason, I may get the oil pan issue sraightened out. I ordered a new center drop from TA Perf today to do the mach up. They also had the proper oil pick up arm to go with it.
Oil Pan arrived yesterday
Fire me an e-mail rivirichnjackie2:thumbsup:gmail.com and I'll send photos as I go. I'm not proficient at posting pics on this site. took months to get my two cars into my profile.
Oil pan is here and I just laid it in hole I dont see clearance problem, but that' not on a block etc. Next step involves moving immobile cars heavy lifting(hood) and its just me and my wife and I'm too old for some of this stuff, so give me a couple days at least.
Just from visiual, looks like choice of trans is probably going to have as much influence on needed mods as any thing. I know the 200-4R is longer and would involve changing drive shaft. Question is if you can locate engine mounts so trans location doesn't shift.
If you keep your head and just commute and cruise with it, you could probably run the 300ST for a season til you're ready for more work. The 300ST I have is a switch pitch model and I've heard they're not all that bad. Won't hold up maybe behind a week end racer 430, but for a driver it's not that fragile. I don't know the condition of mine but give me $25.00 and pay shipping and its yours with switch, linkage and torque converter. Nobody around here wants it.