1965 Buick Special engine

I am currently restoring a 65 Buick Special. The motor that was in the car was a v-6 225. I'm not putting that motor back, I want something with a little more power. I didn't plan on going all original with this car. My first thought was to put a Chevy 350 in. But now I have stumbled across a Buick 425 nailhead. My question is how much extra sheet metal work needs to be done for the 425 to fit? I'm hoping someone out there has done this so I can decide if it's worth the extra investment(time and money). Thanks for your time.

Sheet metal work isn't the problem. The problem is that you would be building what is mechanically a GS clone, and some of the parts you need for that are almost impossible to find. If you can locate all the right parts, everything fits without any cutting.

Naturally, you could put in a Chevy engine by using Chevelle parts, but for no extra work you could install a Buick 350 and keep your Buick all Buick. A Buick big block would be somewhat harder, but still nowhere near as bad as a nailhead.

Ray

Thanks for the reply. What parts would I need to find to make the 425 work?

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Originally Posted by Wirtz293

What parts would I need to find to make the 425 work?

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The parts there are no substitutes for are the exhaust manifolds, engine mounts, and the frame brackets that the mounts bolt to. In addition, you will need the oil pan and radiator. However, there are some big car oil pans that should work and a good radiator shop should be able to custom fab a radiator with the hose connections in the right places.

What year is your 425, and does it have a rear sump or center sump pan?

Ray

The engine came out of a 66. I'm not sure about the pan, I haven't looked at the engine yet. I found a guy who had one but haven't had a chance to go look at it yet.

I knew I was forgetting something. The nailhead starter is on the left side. Some purists will want you to relocate the battery, but you don't absolutely have to do that. You will need a long cable of course, and it needs to be heavier gauge than the stock cable so you don't get excessive voltage drop. It's probably easiest to make it up from bulk welding cable and loose terminals. If you are cheap like me, you can use 2 gauge building wire from Home Depot (copper, not aluminum), although that stuff is a little harder to work with. Electrically, it is just as good as the expensive cable.

Ray

A 300/340/350 Buick engine is just about a bolt-in swap. The 350, IMHO, would be the best choice as many parts, stock & HP, are just about readily available.


Tom T.