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Rebuilding a 350
I am looking to buy a Buick 350 block but I need to be pointed in the right direction. I am looking to go though the engine and rebuild it. I have a stock 72 Skylark 350 right now and I am keeping it a stock looking car (engine is number matching to the car so I don't want to rebuild that engine because of the value it adds to the car). So am looking for a block but I don't know what year to buy. I want to build up the block to be a street car but with some performance in it. Something that can get up and go here and there. I just want to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks guys.
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Hello J-man,
i have a 1972 Buick 350 engine in my garage. I was originally going to rebuild it. I ended up swapping out engines instead. If your near WI, I will sell it to you for cheap. I have the 4 bbl intake, heads, and the core engine. I can throw in a 4 bbl Holley carb also.
Let me know if your interested,
John
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John
I am interested in that seeing I have a 72 Skylark. Could you email me at manogj44@uwosh.edu for more information about the block and send pictures? I do live in Wisconsin.
Jake
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If you can, try to track down a book called ""Building the Buick Performance Engine" by Steven Dove.
That will tell you all about rebuilding the Buick 350 (and 455), and your machinist should also follow the instructions it gives.
Of course we're here to help with any more specific questions...
-Bob C.
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That book is pretty pricey. I have How to Build Max-Performance Buick Engine by Jefferson Bryant and seems to be a pretty good book so far. Do you have any advice where years of blocks to stay a way from or lean towards?
Jake
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For the 350 motors, I'm not aware of any year which is better than another. However If the motor has previously been rebuilt, make sure the cylinders won't need to be bored to the point where the walls are too thin (especially if the motor has been bored +0.030 previously).
-Bob C.
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74 and newer is supposed to use the stronger cap screw rod.
1968-70 have the shallow dish pistons. all years of the 350 are supposed to have pretty much the same combustion chamber in the head so the only way to up compression is with piston dish or milling the block / head / intake.
the older castings MAY also flow slightly better.
there's not supposed to be much difference between the actual blocks.
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Is the only way to tell if a block has been bored with a micrometer or is there stamp from the machinist on the block (sounds kinda like a dumb question)? So any block really is fine for my application because I will be going through the engine, but if I want to up the compression for performance I will need dish piston, intake and older head with a valve job on them?
Is the older blocks more or less desired for the oiling? It seems to me that all years of engines have their strengths and weaknesses but I don't know which is the best/stay away from.
Jake
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any advantage in oiling would be with the newer blocks. and that mostly applies to the 455s. check to make sure your oil pickup is 5/8" diameter, otherwise you'll want to get a large pickup from a v6.
but if I want to up the compression for performance I will need dish piston, intake and older head with a valve job on them?
why older heads? the heads are all pretty much the same from 68-81. the only certain benefit to the old engines is the hi-comp pistons and that assumes that you can re-use the pistons AND that it's not a low comp two barrel build from the factory.
Is the older blocks more or less desired for the oiling?
1968-70 oil the rockers by weeping through the rocker shaft. many people convert to through the push rod oiling and close off the passage between the block and heads but either system works fine.
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Thanks for your help Bob. Now the next step is to find a block and start the rebuild!
Jake