74 buick electra 225 starter nose cone keeps cracking.

Ok i have went through my 3rd starter cause the nose cone keeps cracking the length ways. I think i might have it down to where when i put the accel super coil and cap on plus new spark plugs. Which i thought i had it all right but i might have swapped one or when a buddy was helping he could have. I have found the firing order as 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and the drivers side front to rear as 1-3-5-7 and passenger side front to rear as 2-4-6-8 but what i'm trying to find out is the way they/the numbers run on the aftermarket cap?? Any help is appreciated or if you have other ideas why it might do this. The engine is all bolted in the rig and such so not really wanting to go through all that tdc stuff unless i really need too.:clonk:

:clonk::clonk::clonk::clonk:

I don't think your starter nose cone issue is related to what you have done, but here is the distributor wiring diagram:
http://www.teambuick.com/reference/w...ne_firing.html

some manufacturers include a set of shims with their new or rebuilt starters.
if not they are available at most auto parts stores.

I suggest you try using a shim when you install the next starter.

Timing, and firing order have nothing to do with cracking those nose cones.

Note: I had this happen on my 455:clonk:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob

I don't think your starter nose cone issue is related to what you have done, but here is the distributor wiring diagram:
http://www.teambuick.com/reference/w...ne_firing.html

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Well i want it to run so if you have other ideas i want to hear them. everyone says the starter cracks because its backfiring even though i can't hear it. Granted my hearing isn't that great either. If i can i will put up a pic to show you what the starter looks like.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WildKitty

some manufacturers include a set of shims with their new or rebuilt starters.
if not they are available at most auto parts stores.

I suggest you try using a shim when you install the next starter.

Timing, and firing order have nothing to do with cracking those nose cones.

Note: I had this happen on my 455:clonk:

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I did try a shim or two with the other one but i got that grinding noise. Putting this one in without shims. I didn't hear it grind at all and it actually started. I had to crank it a couple of times but it fired and had to feather the throttle to keep it from dying. Then when it did die i tried to fire it again and i just got the click like it was a dead battery but the yellow top was fine. The carb did spray a little mist of fuel in the air. I crawled under and found what you see in the pics. It has been the same way in all 3 starters.:jeez:

I had a 340 doing this to starters. It was the timing-
and I spoke to Jamie who rebuilds the starters and he indicated he never has used any shims with Buick starters/engines

True Ted:waving:Buicks dont use shims.And the main cause for a broken housing IS IN FACT bad timing or firing order out of sync.Other things that can cause broken housings are carbon tracking in the cap and plug wires leaking causing misfire.As you can see,all the problems are ignition related.

Check for excessive flywheel/flexplate run-out. This could easily cause cracking of the starter drive housing.

Remove the bellhousing bottom cover. Install the starter without its solenoid and engage the drive by pulling on the solenoid plunger. Turn the engine a few degrees at a time by hand and repeat the engagement test until it has gone through a full revolution. You will be able to see/feel if there are places where the mesh is tight or loose.

Ray

Could the flex plate or coverter be loose or cracked, why did you change the starter in the first place?????