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View Full Version : 70 riviera 455 into a 72 350 skylark



Topher-x-01
03-14-2013, 07:13 AM
Hey everyone! I am pulling a 1970 455 out of a riviera and wanting to put it into my 72 skylark, what all am I going to need out of the riviera before I get rid of it? Also what all do I need to change? I was told the oil pan from the riviera will not fit into the skylark? Also what about motor mounts and such? Otherwise it seems like a pretty basic swap... Help would be greatly appreciated!

raycow
03-14-2013, 11:25 AM
You won't need Riviera parts so much as you will need GS455 parts. However, I would definitely keep the Riviera transmission and all of its associated linkage, as it should have a TH400.

Anyway, the major GS455 parts you will need are the engine mounts, engine mount brackets, and exhaust manifolds. You will need to have an exhaust system made, and possibly a driveshaft, as the Riviera TH400 is longer than the one which would have come with a GS455 (I think). Keep the Skylark transmission crossmember and move it to the rear set of holes on the frame rails. The 455 radiator is different, but I would say try the 350 radiator first, just to see if you have a heating problem. Also, If the Riviera has a rear sump pan, try it first before looking for another one.

Ray

Topher-x-01
03-14-2013, 04:28 PM
Thank you! How can I tell if it has a rear sump or not? I'll be taking the motor and tranny out together and both will be going back together into the skylark.

raycow
03-14-2013, 06:00 PM
Thank you! How can I tell if it has a rear sump or not?

You want the deepest part of the oil pan to be at the rear of the engine. Look at the pan on your 350, and if the 455 pan has a similar shape you should give it a try.

Ray

Topher-x-01
03-15-2013, 07:01 AM
Yeah it looks like the deepest part is right in the middle of the pan, that means I needs a new pan and a different style oil pump correct?

Dr. Frankenbuick
03-15-2013, 07:43 AM
You will need the rear sump pan and rear sump oil pick-up tube (71 and newer had the larger pick-up tube). Also exhaust manifolds were basically the same for the 400-430-455 for all years. You will just need an exhaust system to your manifolds.

Topher-x-01
03-20-2013, 07:09 AM
Thanks for the info! Should I just go with headers while I've got the motor out and everthing? I need to disconnect the driveshaft and the motor is ready to come out by the way!

raycow
03-20-2013, 09:30 AM
Should I just go with headers while I've got the motor out and everthing?

My personal preference is not to run headers on a car that will be driven primarily on the street. Reasons are fit, noise, leaks and rust, also spark plug access or plug wire burning on some engines. Now these issues may not matter to you, or you may just "like" headers. In that case, please don't let me talk you out of it.

Ray

Topher-x-01
03-23-2013, 02:50 PM
Aren't the factory manifolds pretty restricting though? I put some headers on a Chevy truck I had and three years of messing with them they never did seal right...

raycow
03-24-2013, 09:01 AM
Aren't the factory manifolds pretty restricting though? I put some headers on a Chevy truck I had and three years of messing with them they never did seal right...

That's exactly the reason I would want headers on a race car, but not on something I expected to drive every day.

Ray

bobc455
03-27-2013, 10:19 AM
My Buick has been daily-driven for about 15 years with headers. It *can* be done, but I'm pushing my car quite hard for performance too.

If you want to do it:
- Get GREAT quality headers with thick flanges (TA makes the best IMO but I would still like thicker flanges)
- Cut header gaskets into sections, so that if you have a leak it can be replaced in about 5-10 minutes (done this plenty of times on the fly)
- Keep a spare set of header gaskets in the trunk, along with a set of tools to replace them (typically includes a couple of different wrenches, especially a small ignition wrench)
- My preference is to avoid the locking header bolts because although the bolts don't loosen, if (when) you have to replace gasket sections it can be done very quickly (back off the bolts a few threads, slip the old gasket out, slide the new gasket in, and tighten the bolts
- Periodically re-tighten the bolts
- When you install the headers, cut off the rear flanges and have them welded to the pipes. (Make sure the rest of your exhaust system is in good shape too)
- Plan on replacing the headers every 6-8 years due to rust. Get them chromed or painted, but not one of those super-expensive coatings. They only add a year or two.

I make it sound like more of a hassle than it is. I will continue with headers, but they do take a bit of extra work.

(By the way - when it comes time to yank the engine, which I seem to do a lot, headers are nice and easy to unbolt and leave in the car)

-Bob C.