Switching to a dual master cylinder?

bluebetty

Member
My current setup is only front disc brakes (from a conversion kit installed by previous owner). Rear brakes were capped off. My goal is to re-connect the rear drum brakes. However, I'm under the impression I will need a dual master cylinder.

How can I determine which one will fit the car? Anyone maybe already know? The current master is mounted under the floor.
 
On a drum system with front and rear the same, the wheel cylinder size is not the same. This way the brake system is stopping in front ~57% and rear ~43% without the use of a proportioning valve. On a drum/disk brake system it is necessary to use a proportioning valve because of the use of drum brakes in the rear, disk in the front. Most of the aftermarket proportional valves come with a big knob to adjust it. I don't recommend this type, but they are plentiful. An OEM factory proportional valve would not have a knob for adjustment.
To select the brakes, decide if you will go [front/rear] disk/drum or disk/disk on your brake system to match the dual master cylinder. Some conversions the master cylinder is relocated while others fabricate the needed brackets to keep in the same location.

Anyways, just a random search produced this place. I have no experience or knowledge with this place. I'm sure it will help you on the topic.

https://www.battlebornbrakes.com/buick
 
On a drum system with front and rear the same, the wheel cylinder size is not the same. This way the brake system is stopping in front ~57% and rear ~43% without the use of a proportioning valve. On a drum/disk brake system it is necessary to use a proportioning valve because of the use of drum brakes in the rear, disk in the front. Most of the aftermarket proportional valves come with a big knob to adjust it. I don't recommend this type, but they are plentiful. An OEM factory proportional valve would not have a knob for adjustment.
To select the brakes, decide if you will go [front/rear] disk/drum or disk/disk on your brake system to match the dual master cylinder. Some conversions the master cylinder is relocated while others fabricate the needed brackets to keep in the same location.

Anyways, just a random search produced this place. I have no experience or knowledge with this place. I'm sure it will help you on the topic.

https://www.battlebornbrakes.com/buick
Thank you. I'm not trying to get farther into it than I really need to, so I'm leaving it disc/drum like it already is. Given that I can easily stop it now with just manual front disc (and I am a VERY small person), I don't intend to convert to power brakes, so I am hoping to just leave the master cylinder where it is mounted under the floor. Fingers crossed 🤞

I sent out emails to battle born and 4 other places to check for a master cylinder and proportioning valve. I'll report back on who has something, in case someone else out there needs the information...
 
Hey, now that we know at least a LITTLE more about your system, maybe someone who's done it will be more able to respond.

In your other thread, you shared that your calipers are Wilwood 120-6814s, on unknown rotors. "Rotor diameter" is important to know, too...the bigger the rotors/further out the calipers are, the more leverage they have - so, all things being equal, the less pressure they'd need for the same amount of braking, so the less "proportioning" you'd eventually need to keep the rear brakes from engaging early.

The Wilwood calipers you listed have dual 1 3/4" bore pistons, and are mounted on a 10- to 13-inch rotor.

If your rear brakes are still stock, they're 1 3/4" wide shoes on at 12" drum, with a 1" brake cylinder.

Testimonial: In a previous life, I swapped the 4-drum setup on an AMC to a disk:drum combination, swapping spindles with a later model compatible car. (Love the interchangability of those old cars over the years!). I did swap the Master Cylinder (more on that later), but I was able to make the changeover without adding a proportioning valve. I noticed my back wheels were locking up early, so I swapped the rear cylinders to much smaller (I believe) 13/16" cylinders, which were the stock size for the later model car, and ended up with a wonderfully usable brake balance - it was a tossup as to which wheel would lock up first on pretty much any surface, with the fronts coming in MAYBE a little more aggressively than the rear on super-slick surfaces where there wasn't as much weight transfer. In other words, exactly what you'd normally want!

BUT, the Master Cylinder I swapped in did have one concession that my drum:drum unit did not - it had different integral "residual pressure" valves than the OEM drum:drum. What is a "residual pressure valve"? It's a mechanism that keeps a bit of hydraulic pressure on (mostly drum brake) cylinders, which is intended to keep the "lip" of the cylinder seal pressed firmly against the bore. Reduces leaking, reduces the tenancy to ingest air, and if a leak DOES occur, it'll tend to leak fluid out rather than sucking air in.

I *think* the old AMC master cylinder kept around ~10 lbs of pressure on the system, front and rear. Low enough that the springs in the brake system would withdraw the shoes, but not so low that the system risked gulping air. The disk:drum unit I swapped to (again IIRC) retained ~10 lbs pressure on the drum cylinders. No idea if it retained anything on the calipers, but if it follows other makes, it would either be "no residual" or "2 lbs residual" for disks.

The 1955 shop manual says that your Buick retains "8 to 16 lbs. of static pressure in the Hydraulic system when the brakes are released". 16 lbs of pressure would be quite a bit more than a caliper should "like". Now, MAYBE whoever changed your system over swapped the residual pressure doohickus in the nose of the master cylinder (Buick called it a "check valve") to a lower-pressure unit - or removed it altogether - but who knows for sure?

1724683707847.pngattached

(note the "compensating port" we were talking about in your other thread ;) )

I'd think you'd want ~2 lbs of static pressure on the fronts because you have an under-floor master cylinder, but that's just me guessing. Link to a really short description of aftermarket residual pressure valves. So 10 lbs for the rear, and 2 for the front?

Wilwood should be able to tell you if you need to care about this!

And maybe someone who knows can let us know if you can get a different/ 2 lb "check valve" for the OEM master cylinder, or if you just get rid of the check valve altogether and run external residual pressure valves, or if you just need to buy a new Master. (I bet Wilwood will recommend the latter, assuming they have one that'll bolt up!)

The other thing that could derail the suitability of your existing master cylinder would be - does it move enough fluid to reliably actuate all the brakes? The calipers have WAY bigger pistons than the drum brakes (Wilwood has dual 1 3/4" pistons, OEM fronts are 1 1/8"?), and it takes a LOT of fluid to move them. Right now, with your rear brakes plugged off, if your pedal is firmly engaged when in the "top half" of the pedal's throw, you MIGHT be OK. But if your pedal goes most of the way towards the floor when hitting the brakes hard without the rear brakes hooked up (and while possibly retaining 8-16 lbs of static pressure)...adding more brake cylinders to the mix isn't going to make things any better.

I'd guess that you'll be fine, but that's what it is - a guess.

Whatever you find, I'm looking forward to hearing how it works out. Thanks for sharing!
 
Bittman your write up on your experience and knowledge on this topic makes it a good candidate for a separate thread DIY article. You have made a lot of valuable points on a brake system, and it will get few reads here after it gets archived. I'd focus on the conversion you made without a proportioning valve because aftermarket sells them on everything.

"A windshield washer pump? definitely need a proportioning valve to balance the squirt from left to right." [false statement]

Wilwood sells brake parts with all technical specs available to the consumer. Usually, the owner of the car invests their time in discovery and money in upgrading to satisfaction. In selecting a master cylinder there are calculations that need to be made in respect to the volume of the calipers and wheel cylinders to be a good match. Most places push the sale, just can't tailor to every car, too many variables.

One thing I will say is that I like Jay Leno's dual master cylinder setup on vehicle called Rosebud, because of the late design cap and fill tank. If you have this late type of dual master cylinder, you can see the fluid level without removing the cap, no tank to rust or paint peeling with brake fluid, ease of removal and less troubles with a plastic cap. Only downside is it looks new and not old if you like vintage.

Here is an article on Jay Leno's car, there is an image of his brake master cylinder setup, but I didn't see information on it.

Jay Leno's First Love: 1955 Buick Roadmaster ”Rosebud” - ThrottleXtreme
 
Heh, "in theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is."

I'd like to think that once bluebetty runs this to ground, she'll be able to do exactly that - post her experience: "Here's my problem, here's how I ended up solving it." The main issue - she's inherited someone else's problem, no idea if they had a plan, or just started ordering and bolting up stuff and then found out it won't work. MAYBE they were happy with the 1" master, but something in the back (lines/hoses/cylinders/whatever) was bad and they capped it off rather than fix it. MAYBE they tried to run the back brakes but the pedal was too low to work. MAYBE they just never got a round tuit. That's probably the first thing to figure out, since it will set the stage for the rest of the changes.

What I've done with non-Buick (and specifically non-55-Buick, which I've never seen in person!) brakes are anecdotes, but they aren't solutions...so hopefully once the solution is found, then yeah, maybe a writeup would make sense.

Looks like one of the biggest challenges with updating the brakes on a manual-brake 55 Special is - the master cylinder on a 55 is a 3-bolt affair, most GM (and Ford) cars switched to 2-bolt flanges long ago, and finding a compatible 2-pot master with a 3-bolt flange is "challenging". And no idea if the stock master *is* too small for the brakes, and what alternatives there are if it is. Well, I can think of one right away - Wilwood makes smaller-piston calipers. But that's more $, too, and again, at this point it's just guessing (and increasing brake effort!) if that comes in to play.

Stock 55 master:

1724709756062.png

@bluebetty:

I can see 5 obvious choices to start with, in roughly increasing cost and/or difficulty:

1) continue to run the stock 1-lung master, figure out how to make it work. This is the one I'd probably personally start with, assuming the pedal is high enough. You already have it, it already seems to "work"...that's what I did on my '52. At least get it running/driving, and prove in the system. IF it works. And that way, if/when you decide to change it up later, you'll KNOW if you can run a 1" master, or if you'll need to make some sort of accommodation. You still may need to mess with residual pressure (unless the previous owner has already done that!), you may need proportioning valves or new rear cylinders...but it's the least-invasive. Assuming it will work.

2) See if anyone has done anything obvious, like having a 2-bolt plate welded in where the 3-bolt mounting plate currently lives, or swapping around the mounting enough that it'll accept a more modern master cylinder. This one both scares and intrigues me...if you do it wrong, *bad things* would happen. And I doubt there's enough room (the 2-bolt flange looks visibly wider in pictures) to do this without more substantial surgery - but if there IS enough room, that would be a simpler exchange and would open up a lot of possibilities.

3) Figure out an adapter of some sort to adapt to a 2-bolt master without requiring the hackery of #2 - or figure some way to cobble a 4-bolt (Mopar-style) master to fit. That leaves the CAR intact.

4) see if anyone makes a 3-flange, 2-pot master that will work. C1 Corvettes seem to use a similar-LOOKING master cylinder, and there are apparently (probably horribly expensive, but still!) aftermarket 3-bolt masters that were available.

5) Or see if Wilwood or any of the other places you've contacted has a suggestion. Like swapping over to a boosted system. Or swapping the master to the firewall. That'd change *everything*. But then, you can do pretty much *anything*.

Anyone think of anything else?

Some junk I've spotted online, no idea of applicability:

The early Corvettes had 3-bolt flanges. The push rod is completely different, but...there are conversion kits for the early Corvettes to adapt to more modern master cylinders. A length of pipe with a 2-flange end on one side and a 3-flange end on the other. That'd move your master cylinder back so you'd need to make sure it'd fit, both length-wise *and* height-wise, and you'd need to fabricate your own (longer) pushrod, and you'd have to figure out how to fill it (Remote reservoir? New access hatch? Or would it "just work?")...but mechanically that looks somewhat reasonable. I don't think the Buick would need that long of a tube. But you'd better REALLY trust your welder!

1724719324195.png

I've seen posts in some of the Corvette boards that you can drill new holes, and cut enough off, of a 4-bolt Mopar flange to make it fit a Corvette, so MAYBE the 55 Buick would be similar. I think the one pictured below is from like a 70 Roadrunner or Satellite. Apparently there's just enough metal there that you can make it work. And if you can believe the message boards, the Mopar ran external residual valves, so it MIGHT be hydraulically compatible out-of-the-box, once you get it to bolt up. But you'd still need some sort of method to seal the front of that from road grime, so that's more tweaking.

1724720793779.png

Or, you can look into a horribly-expensive, and probably really difficult to get parts for, custom Corvette master cylinder - like this one from ABS:

1724719992774.png

If online comments (I can find no specifications!) can be believed: It also supposedly has a 1" bore, so it should have the same pedal height as the stock cylinder, MIGHT bolt right into place, MIGHT be somewhat compatible. Obviously taking all of those posts with a grain of salt. Heck, we don't know for sure that the Corvette master cylinder will even bolt up!


And like I mentioned earlier, whichever way you go, you'd have to figure out how to devise some sort of means that'll let you retain a "bellows" for the pushrod - with the master under the floor, facing "backwards", you'll need to protect the face of the cylinder from road grime somehow. So again, starting from stock makes sense *to me*, but it still needs to be proven if even a possibility.


Or, following through on #5, you just swap the whole thing out. Run a boosted system. Or: Moving the master to the firewall, while changing *everything*, would...change *everything*, and that opens up *every* possibility.

This kinda goes with the territory. You're taking a somewhat-unique car and making it do something that it's never done. And unless someone has done it themselves, or at least has a 55 to look at, it's all guesswork.
 
@GL103 - Thank you! I will check those options out.
@bittman WOW!!! That is a whole education!! I will add updates to this post as I work on solving the problem. My pedal is currently pretty high

You guys have been super helpful, thanks again for taking the time to type all of this out.

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As information for anyone in the future, this is what I've found out so far about parts...

From Wilwood (this option would potentially keep the manual brakes):
"I have been asked about this before, and so I am a little bit familiar with the strange power brake booster and master cylinder that Buick put in these cars in 1955. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find a simple replacement. Does your car have the TreadleVac power brake system? Is the master cylinder under the floor?

If your car does not have a power brake booster, you will need a 3-bolt to 2-bolt adapter (the one pictured below is for a Ford, you will have to get one made for a Buick), then a 1” bore dual circuit master cylinder should bolt up. That is the stock bore size. You may want to move down to a 15/16” bore to get more braking with less pedal effort. You may be able to use the Wilwood Remote Tandem master cylinder, rotated, with two new holes drilled where it mounts in the car – it doesn’t car what direction it points, as long as the reservoirs are above it.

1” bore 260-14388-BK - Wilwood Disc Brakes

15/16” bore 260-14242-BK - Wilwood Disc Brakes

You will need a proportioning valve and a residual pressure valve plumbed into the line to the rear brakes.

Proportioning valve 260-8419 - Wilwood Disc Brakes

Residual valve 260-13784 - Wilwood Disc Brakes

Power brakes are much more complicated, and I can’t even begin to explain. I did find one kit for sale online, but it looks like it uses a single circuit master cylinder - 1954-1955 BUICK S. 50/70 New Power Brake Unit . PBU-545 - Bob's Automobilia"


Battleborn Brakes: recommended the kit mentioned in a previous post, which would convert to power brakes and would move the master cylinder to under the hood.

Speedway Motors initially said they don't know of anything, but also said to call and speak to their technicians. I did not call.
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To add another layer of "fun," I had a random gust of wind blow a piece of debris into my master cylinder (how is my luck? inside the car, with me blocking the door, surrounded by a carport, and still managed to get something in the MC). I was not able to fish it back out.

So my plan now....

1. Find and remove the debris and flush the lines - there was also dust.
2. Add rear brake lines.
3. Change the wheel cylinders (I was told one leaks) and check the brake components on the rear.
4. See what happens from there. My brake pedal is currently very high and not at all soft. The guy at Wilwood mentioned that with the stock 1" bore master cylinder, that I might need a proportioning valve and a residual valve, which they have for about $75. It seems like this would potentially be a straightforward way to get the car back on the road until I can do better.
5. Long-term, I'm probably going to go with Battleborn Brakes' kit to upgrade to a dual master and power brakes, and also move the master cylinder under the hood.

I am not an experienced mechanic, fabricator, or welder, so I am going to avoid anything that requires fabrication or getting "creative."

I will update as I go (and probably ask more questions).
 
On the suggestion of moving down to 15/16" bore/piston, I'm not in agreement. The brake booster is added into the system to provide you assistance. If you want the most help, you would get a double diaphragm brake booster.

So, Battleborn brakes have this kit that has the most important piece, if you are relocating the brake master cylinder, the firewall metal plate. One thing I don't like is that they don't state brake booster dimensions or if it is single or dual diaphragm or give you the option. This is an important specification to know before purchase. They tell you GM style (red flag?) on brake booster and master cylinder. I'm going to assume unbranded parts. We all know where unbranded parts are made. On the plus side Battleborn does offer a one-year warranty excluding the plate which is longer. I see value in just the plate because the other parts identification is ambiguous. They claim all parts are there and it can be unbolted after installed. Just my opinion, I would probably want to know more on the parts and review the instructions before purchasing.

One of Bittman's suggestions, I like the 2 to 3 adapter more than relocating the master cylinder, just seems less involving, plumbing, etc. Finding a welder is no different than just shopping around for a plumber or dentist. I prefer brand name (Raybestos, Bendix, ACDelco) parts that originate out of an actual vehicle so that I can always find parts. Also, the warranty on brand parts may be longer of 24, or 36 months instead of the 12 months on some unbranded parts. Just to mention, it used to be common to visit salvage yard and get Original Equipment Manufacturer parts for a retrofit instead of shopping from the sellers of unbranded parts. Some of us still get parts from other vehicles to fit in our vehicles. The parts fit and function because the specifications match. These are parts that were designed by the car manufacturers and not the unbranded parts.
 
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Well, cool. I especially like this part: "My brake pedal is currently very high". That bodes well for having enough throw with the 1" master. If the Wilwood guy thought that you could go DOWN in piston size, then that's a decent indication that (in their actual experience) they aren't afraid that you'll run out of pedal.

Now, swerving from experience to conjecture - if you do stick with your current master for the time being, then there's one more thing to think about...the fact that "stock" you are running WAY more residual pressure than you need to for disk brakes. You'll probably be able to get away with it for quite a while, especially if you're just toodling around town, not putting serious miles on the car. BUT, if you want to "do something" while you're in there, now's the right time. Especially since you're going to be breaking stuff loose anyway.

Ran out to the garage this AM so I could take snaps of my old master cylinder residual pressure / check valve doohickus. You can see it has more than one function. 1) Residual pressure (duh!), and 2) it keeps the internal return spring centered/located/etc.

I wonder - could you simply defeat the "residual pressure" function of this thing by...drilling/melting holes thru the flexible membrane inside that valve? Drilling out the center of the valve? (I'd be leery of leaving metal shards, but if you cleaned it REALLY good...) Simply removing the valve? (I'd think the spring would be affected).

I'd be tempted to heat up a nail and try to melt holes in the membrane. Less opportunity for stuff to break free. Edit - or, really, the more I think about it, the more I think "yeah, just leave it stock and see what happens, you can always change it up later." Barring any testimonials from folks who have done this before.

I wonder if any of the hot-rod forums have discussion about this. I might do some googling. Or, of course, if anyone else has any experience...even "yah, I've swapped in Wilwood disks, and I didn't bother with defeating the OEM valve, and I've driven 50,000 miles on the same pads," that'd be nice to know. (And would be the easiest thing by far!)

And finally: IF you do something that defeats the stock valve, since your master is down under the floor, I'd probably opt to put a 2-lb residual pressure valve in the front lines. With the master up on the firewall, there's enough differential pressure ("head") to tend to keep stuff from flowing uphill. But with your master below the floor, there's more opportunity for air to run in backwards from the fronts. It's not SUPPOSED to happen, but if it does, that'd be a rude surprise.

Meanwhile - Have you been able to read through the "linkage adjustment" stuff in the manual? That needs verified (can discuss in your other thread if necessary). That needs to be resolved before you drive the car again, or it'll potentially mask other problems. Like: Your pedal feels high now, but is that just because it's not fully releasing? Worth reviewing before going TOO far down any path.

One thing my Dad - who made a living as a mechanic early on in his life - drilled into me: "Always look for the cause of the problem you're fixing. And when you find it, be sure to look for the CAUSE of the cause of the problem."

If you can determine WHY you were having brake-locking issues (and it could be as simple as "the previous owner had the linkage set up wrong", or it could be "nope, something else is bad-wrong in the system!"), that could head off future frustrations.
 

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Just an update:
1. I ran the engine for about 10 minutes parked, and it started running pretty rough once temp started rising. I haven't done a tune up yet, and I'm sure it needs it, so I'll start there.

2. As I mentioned, I had some debris get into my master cylinder. I siphoned out some fluid to try to remove it and found all of this in the reservoir (way more than the little bit i let in). So - seems to me I might as well just replace the master since who knows what has worked its way down into the cylinder, or into the lines.
 

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Why don't you just complete the brake system temporarily with the single master cylinder? The goal is to make it safer than it is right now. With the single master cylinder, it would apply brakes on all four wheels. Currently, only the two fronts are being applied. All the other things mentioned by bittman you can consider at this time with single master cylinder. So much of your focus is just the rear.
The dual master cylinder retrofit is a safety split of the system into front and rear. This can be done at a later time when you have more capacity. All this debris in the bowl will clean out when the system gets bled of air at time of repair, adding the rear.
 
Why don't you just complete the brake system temporarily with the single master cylinder? The goal is to make it safer than it is right now. With the single master cylinder, it would apply brakes on all four wheels. Currently, only the two fronts are being applied. All the other things mentioned by bittman you can consider at this time with single master cylinder. So much of your focus is just the rear.
The dual master cylinder retrofit is a safety split of the system into front and rear. This can be done at a later time when you have more capacity. All this debris in the bowl will clean out when the system gets bled of air at time of repair, adding the rear.

I bought a set of brake lines yesterday, but at this point the car is about to be sold. Every time I start the car something new is wrong. What started as a running, driving tinkering project is turning into a nightmare. I start the car and let it run about every other day. Last weekend, I changed the plugs and wires, then drove it around. Engine ran better than it did before the change.

Now, the engine dies when it is put in gear. When you first crank it up, it sounds OK. When you put it in gear, it tries to die. If you give it gas, it goes but when you let off the engine dies. If you put it back in park, it sounds like crap.
 
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