Sportwagon Restoration Page

Hi, Looking for a bit more help on the Sportwagon restoration -This time related to the ST300 and the switch pitch system

1 - Can anyone tell me just how the two-wire outer connection at the transmission comes off? I know this may seem obvious but mine seems really tight or stiff and I have tried easily prying the black plug connector off of the trans plug(solenoid switch?). I cannot seem to loosen it or get it off. The plastic plug (solenoid switch?) in the trans is now moving, and now is leaking fluid...from my "work". I see in the chassis manual on this website fig. 5-107 how the solenoid sits in the trans body - it probably has an oring or two that are now leaking? But how does the outside connector come off ? - is it locked in any way or should I just keep pulling / prying straight off?

I have the stator and detent switch off at the engine end (intake off for painting/gaskets) - and want to remove the assembly but cannot seem to disconnect at trans connector...

2- Does anyone have a photo or better diagram than that on fig 5-38 of how exactly the idle stator microswitch at the throttle linkage is activated? Is there a lever or rod or screw that touches it? I feel someone may have removed a part(s?) off of my engine. Everything looks right however no apparent means of depressing the micro switch.

I have attached photos from my car

Thank-you in advance

DaveSP Microswitch at throttle - 65SW.jpgSP conn at ST300 - 65SW.jpgSP conn at ST300 - 65SW-2.jpgSP Microswitch at throttle - 65SW.jpg
 
I dont see the plug to have hex shape so dont think it is threaded. Is it held from inside, pan removed? You possibly broke the seal/oring reason that its loose and leaking. With all that oil wouldnt hurt to replace pan seal to investigate this. Also replace seal behind the shifter fork while pan is removed.
In regard to microswitch just wondering why someone would disable it? On my vehicle it had broken neutral switch appeared to be broken for long time, so when it stalled(frequently) on the road i could start it up while it was moving.
Ive since replaced neutral switch, so if it stalls i have to roll to a stop before i can start it. I've fixed the root cause of stalling.

I dont have this model vehicle, lets see others input....
 
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The connector at the trans. just pulls off.
Spray it with some carb. cleaner & it will soften the rubber so it will pull off easier.

Tom T.
 
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Thank-you Tom - I hadn't considered the old carb cleaner - i do believe it's just heat-hardened on but wanted to check with you guys out there first before I went all Schwarzenegger on it
 
Updating on the progress on the 65 SW: I was able to get the outer wire plug off of the solenoid connector. It was a really hard "pop" off - going to be fun to het it back on - I guess more carb cleaner is in order!

I have replaced both the solenoid connector o-ring and the shift shaft seal as well, while I had the pan off changing the filter.

A couple of observations - boy the Buick guys didn't leave any extra wire inside the pan for the inner solenoid connector - verrrry tight - had to drop out the filter retainer clip bolt and even then the wires were really snug.

We tested using the full harness and a 12V source - while apart - and both the downshift and S/P solenoids appear to be working (clicking) using the crab downshift plunger, and the microswitch.

I have a question about transmission filters - I am starting to think I may be the first person to ever service this poor little ST 300, as the trans filter looks very different, has a AC Delco part number, and appears like nothing else available these days for replacement. If you will look at the photos below, the "PF162" I pulled out (which I am thinking may be OEM install?) has a "humpback" on it, a relatively short neck, and it has the inlet hole on the bottom.

All replacements I could find looked similar to the attached photo, with longer neck (same overall height), and inlet on the top side. The inlet on the top I always thought was to keep any smaller debris on the pan bottom and out of the suction.

Soooo, the questions are - has anyone seen this style of "humpback" filter on their Buick? What is the purpose of the "hump? I looked inside from the tube top and it really didn't appear to have any additional filtration media in there... Was PF162 the original equipment for this 65SW with ST300? Why would the inlet not be on the top side?

IMG_1940.JPGIMG_1947.JPGIMG_1953.JPGIMG_1961.JPGIMG_1963.JPGIMG_1980.JPGst300filter2.jpg
 
my filter on dual path had metal mesh, I cleaned it with spray, if the new filter dont look right it probably isnt. WD40 will soften hardened rubber. Synthetic silicone paste on rubber or dielectric grease could be used to refit a hard connection, let it sit overnight so the chemicals do their part. the inquiry of the hump may be in the manual.
 
As far as contamination of the oil is concerned, many transmission use a small piece of plastic like magnetic material on the oil pan floor close to the intake. I often add a couple of regular magnets in strategic locations.
 
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