Our "68 Skylark

mmccunney

Member
Hi everyone! My son and I are finally getting our 68 Skylark convertible back on the road. I've had the car for about 20 years. I restored the body, repainted and drove it or for a few years before we had engine problems. Slowly but surely we tore the engine apart and had it all redone. Now we're putting it back together and we're probably about two weeks from being back on the road. We are excited to say the least!

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Very cool! It's so satisfying bringing something back from the dead. Fire away if you have any questions or run into any problems putting it back together as there is a font of knowledge here. Not always the fastest replies to your questions, it would seem, but we try. Wouldn't mind seeing a pic or 2 of the car as everyone here likes Buick Porn :)

Gary
 
Gary,
Thanks for the enthusiastic reply! We did run into a problem... Not getting any spark. I put a voltmeter on the coil and it's working at 12.38 volts and 1.8 ohms. I also clean the points which were brand new 12 years ago ha ha. A buddy of mine suggested we convert to electronic ignition by pertronix. He has a coil he can give me. Any thoughts here? Oh and here's a pic or two.2990c8ff4ca98cb61f470f1e921bd795.jpgcc1d254005129e8e7a8bdf9507e80a10.jpg

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I would have to agree with the change to electronic ignition. In the long run, it's one less hassle to deal with and the spark will be hotter and the timing won't wander as the points close up with wear. Make sure the distributor you're converting is in good condition without any obvious wear on the dist shaft. Nice looking car! Manual drum brakes! I like your heater control valves! Very steampunk! You may want to add a brake booster one day as they don't stop that great to begin with ;)
 

Do the tests in the above thread. You should have 5.5-6 volts measured from the coil + to ground with the POINTS CLOSED, and the key on in the run position. The reading should jump up to 9 volts minimum when you crank the engine with the ignition disabled. Make sure neither of the leads attached to the points are touching the base plate. Put the points rubbing block on the high point of the cam and look at the point gap. Should be .016". Attach a test light between the - side of the coil and ground. Crank the engine and the test light should flash. Points are very simple and they work. If they are 12 years old, I'd replace them. Get the separate points and condenser, stay away from the uniset.

Pertronix is garbage. The best points replacement on the market is this one,

 
Thanks for the info. Yes the cam appears to be in very good shape. And yes I've been thinking about power brakes. That will probably be my next investment.

- Mike

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Thanks Larry. I will run through the test and replace the points and condenser first. Your link to eBay didn't connect properly. If I still wanted to convert over to electronic ignition, what would you recommend?

Mike

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