Hello all from the Netherlands, Today I got my Buick Skylak 1980. I already had my 1st Buick Park Avenue '92 20 years ago and I wished never sold it. Now after a long search I found a Skylark for a nice price. Have some problems to fix so I found this forum. I hope I'll get some friendly help because of my stonecole english. So I say hi to everyone and hope to find some help here on this forum.
- 1942 Shop Manual
- 1948-49 Shop Manual
- 1950 Shop Manual
- 1951 Shop Manual
- 1952 Shop Manual
- 1953 Shop Manual
- 1954 Shop Manual
- 1955 Shop Manual
- 1956 Shop Manual
- 1957 Chassis Service Manual
- 1958 Chassis Service Manual
- 1959 Chassis Service Manual
- 1960 Chassis Service Manual
- 1961 Chassis Service Manual, Special
- 1962 Chassis Service Manual, 4000, 4100, and 4300 Models
- 1962 Chassis Service Manual, 4400, 4600, and 4800 Models
- 1963 Chassis Service Manual, 4000, 4100, and 4300 Models
- 1964 Chassis Service Manual, 4000, 4100, and 4300 Models
- 1964 Chassis Service Manual, 4400, 4600, 4700 and 4800 Models
- 1965 Chassis Service Manual, 43000 and 44000 Models
- 1965 Chassis Service Manual, 45, 46, 48, and 49000 Models
- 1965 Chassis Service Manual, Skylark Gran Sport, All Models
- 1966 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1967 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1968 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1969 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1970 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1971 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1972 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1973 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1974 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
- 1975 Chassis Service Manual, All Series
My 1st Skylark
- Thread starter Ed Rocket
- Start date
Hello to you as well. Fire away with questions.
cardone whiper motor 40-181 = 1st problem, keeps running with switch off. I've ground on body. Love to have a diagram. Its A 3 and 2 plug.
Motor = brand new, old one was in the new box, same problem.
My nr 1 headbreaker, now weather is nice, but with rain I've to plug the 3 connector, lol
Motor = brand new, old one was in the new box, same problem.
My nr 1 headbreaker, now weather is nice, but with rain I've to plug the 3 connector, lol
Last edited:
Stray Tate
Member
That's the first year of the front wheel drive "X Body" GM cars - Chevrolet Citation, Pontiac Phoenix, Oldsmobile Omega, and Buick Skylark. They shared many parts. The base engine was the 2.5 litre OHV in line four, and a 2.8 lilre OHV V6 was optional. The base transmission was a four speed manual; a three speed automatic with the new lock up torque converter was optional. I was surprised to read the claim, in the 80 Omega sales brochure, that with the V6, it would out accelerate the 1979 Omega V8 to 50 mph.
They had some common problems. Power steering racks were prone to failing to provide "power assist" when cold. The first two or three years, the rear brake wheel cylinders were mounted with a snap clip that was a pain to remove and install. A special tool, a kind of snap ring plier, was available. You can have mine, if I can find it. That design was replaced by a two tiny eTorx bolts arrangement. That was not great progress. One design didn't leave enough room to remove the cylinder without removing, or at least loosening the hub/bearing assembly.
Your 80 model has the steering rack mounted to the firewall, not to the sub frame, and an emergency brake cable routing that was changed for a better idea in later years. While the X Body cars came in for a lot of criticism, the partly contemporary A Body cars didn't. This amuses me because the two bodies were very similar, in "under the skin" design, power trains and dimensions.
Skylarks, being Buicks, a premium brand, had a strut support to hold the hood open, a feature that didn't appear on the other "down market" brands. But the 83 Omega Brougham I had was plusher than any of the Skylarks I've seen. But I had to use a prop rod to hold my hood up.
All the best with your Skylark.
If I'm following your "3 and 2" comment, that makes me think that this car has a more modern wiper motor in it - one in which the wiper motor is supplied power all the time the key is on. Usually a white wire? Would be in the "3" plug. The wiper switch will ground either of the 2 other terminals of the "3" plug - one for low, one for high.
The "2" plug is an alternate path for parking. When the switch is turned "off", the "2" plug will connect the low-speed terminal to ground (through the "off" position of the switch) until a cam on the motor opens the "2" plug once it's in the correct position.
I tend to agree with GL03 - sounds likely that the switch is messed up. But it could be that another wire is shorted to ground, or the parking switch wiring harness could be shorted and never turning off.
How to test? Well, assuming that in 1980 all of the wiper switching was mechanical and not done by relays (is that a safe assumption?), you can test the wiring harness:
- Determine if you do have a "hot all the time" wire (usually white?) going to the wiper motor with the key turned to "Accessory". If not, then my thinking is wrong, and you can stop here.
- Turn off the ignition. Test continuity to ground for the other wires. Use an ohmmeter or continuity tester, and note when the other terminals are grounded:
The High wire should be grounded if the switch is in High, and should be open if the switch is in Low or Off.
The Low wire should be grounded if the switch is in Low, it should be open if the switch is in High, and it MAY still be grounded in the Off position if the parking switch is engaged (if the wipers aren't in the "park' position). But if you unplug the "2-wire", it should also be open in Off.
One side of the "2-wire" should be open with the switch in High or Off, and grounded with the switch in Low.
The other side of the "2-wire" should be open in High and Low, and grounded in Off.
- If you have continuity to ground in any other configuration - then you do have either a short, or (as suspected) a bad switch.
Here's a simplified diagram of a more modern wiper motor (I think it's from a Chevy). Ignore 7 and 8, 1 thru 5 are what I'm talking about.
My suspicion - you'll find that "low" is grounded all the time. And that it's maybe a bad switch causing it. THAT you have to get inside the car to find. If you can unplug the switch at the steering column (somehow), then all of the wires listed above should be open - if they're not, then there's a short in the harness. And you should be able to figure out the switch if it's unplugged from the rest of the wiring harness - there should only be 1 position grounded at a time. But now I'm just guessing!
The "2" plug is an alternate path for parking. When the switch is turned "off", the "2" plug will connect the low-speed terminal to ground (through the "off" position of the switch) until a cam on the motor opens the "2" plug once it's in the correct position.
I tend to agree with GL03 - sounds likely that the switch is messed up. But it could be that another wire is shorted to ground, or the parking switch wiring harness could be shorted and never turning off.
How to test? Well, assuming that in 1980 all of the wiper switching was mechanical and not done by relays (is that a safe assumption?), you can test the wiring harness:
- Determine if you do have a "hot all the time" wire (usually white?) going to the wiper motor with the key turned to "Accessory". If not, then my thinking is wrong, and you can stop here.
- Turn off the ignition. Test continuity to ground for the other wires. Use an ohmmeter or continuity tester, and note when the other terminals are grounded:
The High wire should be grounded if the switch is in High, and should be open if the switch is in Low or Off.
The Low wire should be grounded if the switch is in Low, it should be open if the switch is in High, and it MAY still be grounded in the Off position if the parking switch is engaged (if the wipers aren't in the "park' position). But if you unplug the "2-wire", it should also be open in Off.
One side of the "2-wire" should be open with the switch in High or Off, and grounded with the switch in Low.
The other side of the "2-wire" should be open in High and Low, and grounded in Off.
- If you have continuity to ground in any other configuration - then you do have either a short, or (as suspected) a bad switch.
Here's a simplified diagram of a more modern wiper motor (I think it's from a Chevy). Ignore 7 and 8, 1 thru 5 are what I'm talking about.
My suspicion - you'll find that "low" is grounded all the time. And that it's maybe a bad switch causing it. THAT you have to get inside the car to find. If you can unplug the switch at the steering column (somehow), then all of the wires listed above should be open - if they're not, then there's a short in the harness. And you should be able to figure out the switch if it's unplugged from the rest of the wiring harness - there should only be 1 position grounded at a time. But now I'm just guessing!
I now have a much bigger problem, the hood cable is broken, cant open. OMG! I loved your tips, but can do nothing. I'll let you hear. Thx for the tips @bittmann .
I think your tips better then remove the steeringwheel togo to the dishwiper switch on the console. pfff
Today I was also busy trying to fix the radio. No way I can fix. They cut the wires off. I'm thinking to build in a new modern radio....there's room for it, but then its not original. I'm thinking about it. Maybe a few % chance can fix the original, but cant find wire diagram.
I think your tips better then remove the steeringwheel togo to the dishwiper switch on the console. pfff
Today I was also busy trying to fix the radio. No way I can fix. They cut the wires off. I'm thinking to build in a new modern radio....there's room for it, but then its not original. I'm thinking about it. Maybe a few % chance can fix the original, but cant find wire diagram.
Last edited:
If you're lucky and it's this way on YOUR car...On my friend's Olds Omega of that approximate vintage, you could get under the front of the car, look up I think it was in front of the radiator, and see where the cable pulls. Just get a long screwdriver, prybar or whatever up there, yank the lever that the cable pulls on, and it'll pop. Might be visible directly, might be a hole in the cowl that you reach through, I can't remember.
If you can't see the cable from the underside, you PROBABLY can see the bolts on the bottom of the latch itself (guessing 2 bolts, reachable with a long socket extension). Pull the bolts, and it should let go?
If you can't see the cable from the underside, you PROBABLY can see the bolts on the bottom of the latch itself (guessing 2 bolts, reachable with a long socket extension). Pull the bolts, and it should let go?
I have no first-hand experience w that car, unfortunately. If you can't see where the cable connects to the latch, or the bolts holding the latch itself, I have no more suggestions.
Maybe use the camera from your phone to look up inside the car. Usually the latch is either on the radiator support, or on a brace from the support to the front of the car. On a late 70s Olds as I recall you could get to it from the bottom fairly easily without removing anything - at least it was easy once you located the latch. I would suspect your car is similar, it just may take some detective work.
I asked my friend w the Olds if he remembers the trick. He doesn't really remember either. He did say he thought the latch on his car did NOT bolt from the bottom, he thought it bolted from the side. So it may not be easy to find, and may be difficult to remove until the hood is open. So he said "find the latch" was the only thing he could recommend.
If you can't see where the cable connects to the latch, or the bolts holding the latch itself, I have no more suggestions.Maybe use the camera from your phone to look up inside the car. Usually the latch is either on the radiator support, or on a brace from the support to the front of the car. On a late 70s Olds as I recall you could get to it from the bottom fairly easily without removing anything - at least it was easy once you located the latch. I would suspect your car is similar, it just may take some detective work.
I asked my friend w the Olds if he remembers the trick. He doesn't really remember either. He did say he thought the latch on his car did NOT bolt from the bottom, he thought it bolted from the side. So it may not be easy to find, and may be difficult to remove until the hood is open. So he said "find the latch" was the only thing he could recommend.
Last edited:
It could really help if you got a manual and a wiring diagram for your car. If you have multiple issues, and those issues are coincidentally in the same wiring harness... could be something that you could spot by studying the diagram.
Like (and I doubt this is the case but...) you discover that one of the wiper lines (low speed?) is shorted to the fan harness. That'd make the wiper run all the time. And since that switch connects to ground, that would "pop" the fan's fuse (and maybe damage the wiper switch!) if the fan were "on" and the wipers switched to "low". So: If you unplug the fan, do the wipers stop? That's one way to step through this.
Once you can see how the wiring works, there's not a lot of magic in a classic car's wiring. Not like the computer-controlled stuff today! So you can figure it out. But until you can figure it out, it will be confusing.
A manual can really help.
Like (and I doubt this is the case but...) you discover that one of the wiper lines (low speed?) is shorted to the fan harness. That'd make the wiper run all the time. And since that switch connects to ground, that would "pop" the fan's fuse (and maybe damage the wiper switch!) if the fan were "on" and the wipers switched to "low". So: If you unplug the fan, do the wipers stop? That's one way to step through this.
Once you can see how the wiring works, there's not a lot of magic in a classic car's wiring. Not like the computer-controlled stuff today! So you can figure it out. But until you can figure it out, it will be confusing.
A manual can really help.
I was busy with both problems at the same time. Wipers Ive to messure some more. Ive ground on the 4 or 5 and Ive 12V on I think 1 (diagram).
When take 1,2,3 out then It stops. Ive 2 keys, 1 on the steer and 1 on dashboard, ass key (doesnt react on wipers) and ignition key, that 1 will stop the wiper when clicks off. When i click it on again its not working only when I use the wiper switch. Then have click ignition key off it stops.
Fan; Ive a big red wire to fan. I put power on red its running. The red cable walks to other side I cant see where its going. Ive maybe the thermo sensor (1 green wire) and took wire of and shorten to ground, nothing. I dont know if theres a relais.
And YES, a manual can help. I go try find 1. Thx!
Trying to remember the 1980s - another thing that it MIGHT be, if that car has "intermittent wipers" or "wiper delay" or whatever it was called back then - if there's an electronic "brain" (remember me lamenting about computer-controlled "stuff"?) that can also drive the wipers - then it's *possible* that a transistor has "crowbarred" and is yanking a line to ground all the time. That would certainly make the wipers continually run.
In that case, maybe you can test the delay module. If it's bad, you could potentially bypass the transistor...you would lose delay, but then the wipers would maybe shut off! (But then you have to worry about "why did the delay module die?").
---
Still - Going back to basics - you can see this by testing the "3-way" connector - if our assumptions of the wiring is correct, and (with both wiper motor connections unplugged), at least one of the other 2 lines are always ground (ohms setting) regardless of where the wiper switch is (maybe a grey wire?)...then you have a short to ground, and your wiper motor would run all the time. Then it's just a matter of stepping back through the harness until you find where that ground is, probably wiring, this module, or the switch itself.
In that case, maybe you can test the delay module. If it's bad, you could potentially bypass the transistor...you would lose delay, but then the wipers would maybe shut off! (But then you have to worry about "why did the delay module die?").
---
Still - Going back to basics - you can see this by testing the "3-way" connector - if our assumptions of the wiring is correct, and (with both wiper motor connections unplugged), at least one of the other 2 lines are always ground (ohms setting) regardless of where the wiper switch is (maybe a grey wire?)...then you have a short to ground, and your wiper motor would run all the time. Then it's just a matter of stepping back through the harness until you find where that ground is, probably wiring, this module, or the switch itself.
Last edited:
Hey, look what I found online...think this is from the x-body cars. Look at what the difference is between the 2 pages...a "computerized" module! So maybe that could be a possibility. And if so, it's possible to bypass it. The probability is low that this is the issue, but it's not zero...
(Also, I see online that the 4-cylinder has different blower motor and Air Conditioner wiring from the 6-cylinder, and it's different non-AC to AC...So knowing more about your car would help zero in on the wiring. Maybe add your car's specs to your profile!)
(Also, I see online that the 4-cylinder has different blower motor and Air Conditioner wiring from the 6-cylinder, and it's different non-AC to AC...So knowing more about your car would help zero in on the wiring. Maybe add your car's specs to your profile!)
Thx @bittmann . No ground on the 3 way, only on 2 way. But I can live with this problem. If its not raining, pull over and turn off motor, then wipers stop. lol.
Now Im busy with the motorfan. More inmportant, because just testet and almost coocking in the pot, pffff.
Thx for diagram, i go study. My Model = Buick Skylark 2.8 Ltr / 6V Sedan,1980, thats all I know.
Now Im busy with the motorfan. More inmportant, because just testet and almost coocking in the pot, pffff.
Thx for diagram, i go study. My Model = Buick Skylark 2.8 Ltr / 6V Sedan,1980, thats all I know.
Last edited:
Maybe this is your blower wiring. Maybe. Looks like for both the X-body 4- and 6-cylinder, it's similar - there is a blue wire that carries the lower speeds, and a tan wire trips a relay to run full +12V (red wire) to send high speed to the purple wire going to the blower motor. So if you only get high speed, then your low-speed resistor could be bad. Yes, the blower relay could be melted, too.
Some stuff to try -
Is the fuse still intact? Then check the blower relay (probably on the right-hand side of the cowl). Check power coming IN to the relay (key on) - should always have power on red, should have power on dark blue whenever the fan is low/med, should have power on tan when high. Should have power being supplied to the fan (purple wire) as long as you have the switch turned on.
Does it blow the fuse? If so - power off, with the fan plugged in, if you check resistance from the "not hot" side of the A/C-Heater fuse to ground...there should be NO conductivity when the blower switch is "off". There should be varying levels of conductivity based on the fan speed setting (and whether there is an A/C clutch?) on all the other positions. In no case should the resistance be lower than (say) 0.5 ohms - that'd be close to a 25A draw and would pop the fuse.
Maybe you'll get "lucky" and find that the switch looks normal when off/vent/heat, and looks like a short when you see Max/Norm/Defrost. Then you can focus on the air conditioner part of the harness. (light blue wire - A/C clutch, idle stop solenoid, that sort of thing. I'll bet there's a computer involved there, too. )
If you're getting an immediate "poof" on the fuse, then a short should be pretty obvious I'd hope!
Some stuff to try -
Is the fuse still intact? Then check the blower relay (probably on the right-hand side of the cowl). Check power coming IN to the relay (key on) - should always have power on red, should have power on dark blue whenever the fan is low/med, should have power on tan when high. Should have power being supplied to the fan (purple wire) as long as you have the switch turned on.
Does it blow the fuse? If so - power off, with the fan plugged in, if you check resistance from the "not hot" side of the A/C-Heater fuse to ground...there should be NO conductivity when the blower switch is "off". There should be varying levels of conductivity based on the fan speed setting (and whether there is an A/C clutch?) on all the other positions. In no case should the resistance be lower than (say) 0.5 ohms - that'd be close to a 25A draw and would pop the fuse.
Maybe you'll get "lucky" and find that the switch looks normal when off/vent/heat, and looks like a short when you see Max/Norm/Defrost. Then you can focus on the air conditioner part of the harness. (light blue wire - A/C clutch, idle stop solenoid, that sort of thing. I'll bet there's a computer involved there, too.
)If you're getting an immediate "poof" on the fuse, then a short should be pretty obvious I'd hope!
Attachments
Last edited:
@bittmann , its the fan on the radiator. When the motor is hot the fan has to cool the radiator.Maybe this is your blower wiring. Maybe. Looks like for both the X-body 4- and 6-cylinder, it's similar - there is a blue wire that carries the lower speeds, and a tan wire trips a relay to run full +12V (red wire) to send high speed to the purple wire going to the blower motor. So if you only get high speed, then your low-speed resistor could be bad. Yes, the blower relay could be melted, too.
Some stuff to try -
Is the fuse still intact? Then check the blower relay (probably on the right-hand side of the cowl). Check power coming IN to the relay (key on) - should always have power on red, should have power on dark blue whenever the fan is low/med, should have power on tan when high. Should have power being supplied to the fan (purple wire) as long as you have the switch turned on.
Does it blow the fuse? If so - power off, with the fan plugged in, if you check resistance from the "not hot" side of the A/C-Heater fuse to ground...there should be NO conductivity when the blower switch is "off". There should be varying levels of conductivity based on the fan speed setting (and whether there is an A/C clutch?) on all the other positions. In no case should the resistance be lower than (say) 0.5 ohms - that'd be close to a 25A draw and would pop the fuse.
Maybe you'll get "lucky" and find that the switch looks normal when off/vent/heat, and looks like a short when you see Max/Norm/Defrost. Then you can focus on the air conditioner part of the harness. (light blue wire - A/C clutch, idle stop solenoid, that sort of thing. I'll bet there's a computer involved there, too.
If you're getting an immediate "poof" on the fuse, then a short should be pretty obvious I'd hope!
Ahh
THAT one is a little more vital. Let me see if I can find that schematic...maybe this one:
OK, cooling fan relay is probably on the RH fender. Red should always be hot. Brown/White should be hot with the key on. Ground the Dark Green/White wire to trigger the cooling fan relay.