How much should I pay for this 1950 Buick Sedanette?

J

joshhirst13

Active Member
Hey guys. I need your help. I'm meeting the owner if this car to buy it & I want to get an idea if what I should be paying for this car. He said its been sitting outside in the same spot for 5 years. He said it did run when he parked it. I haven't been inside the car or even up close to it because its parked behind a bob wire fence. Any help or info would be great.
Thanks,
Josh
 
joshhirst13 said:
Hey guys. I need your help. I'm meeting the owner if this car to buy it & I want to get an idea if what I should be paying for this car. He said its been sitting outside in the same spot for 5 years. He said it did run when he parked it. I haven't been inside the car or even up close to it because its parked behind a bob wire fence. Any help or info would be great.
Thanks,
Josh
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That depends on how much rust, how complete it is and the condition of the body. I've bought 3 1951 Buicks, all in non running shape. One for 400 that was missing a drivetrain and other parts, and one for 1100 that was very complete and low rust but in need of restoration. These were all 4 doors, so a Sedanette should be worth more, and 1950 had the one year only grill, which might add to the value as well. I'm guessing this is a Super Sedanette? I think those were only offered in a Super or Roadmaster. Let us know what you think of it.
 
Try to take as many pics as you can with special emphasis on damaged or missing parts, and post them here. This will be a great help in estimating the car's worth.

Ray
 
if its a super it should have a one piece windshield, roadmaster decor, and I think they had the first 263 motor. If its rough but has good grille and chrome etc any model is good for parts, but any way I would suggest you get the best car you can get as they arent easy nor cheap to restore. Good sedanets 2dr or 4dr are pricey, and Roadmasters are really rare.
 
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Heres one pic. Best I could do from behind the fence. Let me know what you guys think. I haven't seen the inside if the car yet.
Thanks,
Josh
 
joshhirst13 said:
Here's the other side. Any price suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Josh
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I like it! I would guess 2,000 to 3,000 in the current non running shape, maybe more. I saw a 1950 Roadmaster 4 door in good original (but non running) condition sell for around 5000 but I think that was unusually high. I've only owned a few old Buicks and I'm not an expert, I could be way off.
 
Josh- The pictured car is a 1950 Special. That means it is powered by the 248, not the more modern 263 used in the Supers. A factor that likely does not much affect the value. Body work to address rust is more costly than mechanical work. If the rockers are rusted thru in any place, the floors (particularly the driver's side front floor) and the trunk floor (particularly towards the rear) will be badly holed) Also, check the bottoms of the doors for thru rust. If the rockers, doors and all other exterior body surfaces are sound and straight, and the trim is intact, the car should be worth $2500, no matter the condition of the mechanicals. If the interior (other than upholstery) is intact and in decent condition, add another $500+. '51 Special
 
That looks to be in good shape for the age. Looks like all the important parts are there and the chrome isn't half bad either. Should be worth 3,000 or possibly more to the right buyer. How much is he asking for it?
 
Let me ask you guys this. Being that all the 1950 Buicks I've seen listed on Craigslist & eBay aren't nearly as complete & this one is less than an hour frim my house would I be stupid to pass on this car if I can't get it for less than $3000?
Thanks,
Josh
 
joshhirst13 said:
Let me ask you guys this. Being that all the 1950 Buicks I've seen listed on Craigslist & eBay aren't nearly as complete & this one is less than an hour frim my house would I be stupid to pass on this car if I can't get it for less than $3000?
Thanks,
Josh
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Keep in mind that these aren't cheap to restore. I've got thousands in mine and it doesn't even run yet! If it was a car I was attached to, forking over a little more than three grand wouldn't bother me. But then again, most of the cars I've owned have ended up with more money in them than they're worth. Let us know when you find out about a price.
 
Josh- From the pictures, the car appears superficially to have real possibilities. It appears to be complete (except for the alternator replacing the generator). And, to my eye, the 46S/56S are the prettiest body style of the 1950 Buicks. But, I cannot see the interior or the bottom of the car. The bottom is where rust will be found. Restoring even a complete interior will cost a good deal more than rebuilding the 248, even if you do much of the work yourself. You have not really said whether you would plan a restoration, a "resto-mod," or, if you plan a restoration, whether it would be a driver or a show car. If you are looking for a show car you should start with the very best you can find, and this isn't it. If you are looking for something to work on, learn about these cars, and enjoy as a driver, this is your ticket. But, still, $2500 - $3000, unless what I have not seen is much better than what the pictures show. Let us know how it turns out. '51 Special
 
Hey guys. Sorry I wasn't more specific. Im looking fo something to work on, learn about these cars, and enjoy as a driver. So it looks like $2500 to $3000 is about what I should pay. Maybe a little more. Now if I can just get the owner to call back with a price. He set up a meeting with his buddy that stores the car for him to let me see the car & now I can't get in touch with him to make a deal. Cross your fingers for me & thanks for all of your guys help & advice.
Thanks,
Josh
 
Josh- Remember to take flashlight and wear something you won't feel bad about getting dirty. If you get to talking money, remember (1) what you cannot repair yourself will cost waaay more than you expect; and (2) the cost out-of-pocket for you may depend a lot on what you can tackle yourself. For instance, if you are a competent welder, you can replace floor pans and rockers, without being a body repair expert. (It cost me about $1600 for driveline repairs to my 51, including replacing a Dynaflow with a standard transmission, new clutch, resurfaced flywheel, bored engine, turned crank, valve job, new pistons and bearings, and misc., plus another $350 for tools I needed. The big savings came by doing all but the machine work myself, and buying a $200 parts car that had almost all of the parts I needed. I was quoted $3500 to $4500 just for rebuilding the engine before I decided to do the work myself.) '51 Special
 
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