engine trouble

too much fuel?

Generally when a carb seeps fuel all over the manifold that means it is flooding. First thing to check would be the carb float and the needle-and-seat; even a small amount of crud in the needle, or a sunken float, can literally drown your carb (and your engine) with fuel. Try letting the car set a few hours (or days) and then cranking again: block the choke wide open and open the throttle halfway, if she catches, then dies, there's a flooding condition somewhere in the carb.

If not, it may be time to do another compression test, on the "good" cylinders. A jumped timing chain will show up as low compression all across the board.

In any event, as another poster has already stated, it's probably not a good idea to run your engine too much at this point. If the anti-freeze has been changed, and the car is at it's park location, it's probably best to leave her set until you can pull that head off and see what's up with the motor. Just my $.02
 
ok ive had the engine retimed,new sprockets and chain also installed, the water pump was also replaced as well as some miscelanous parts. that said the car runs better but im still having some problems. for example before the motor was retimed, the engine would "load up" and you occasionally hear a back fire or a pop thru the carb followed by a huge cloud of smoke. the car is still doing this. also the person who fixed my car fixed the valve covers by straightening them out and reinstalling the gaskets. after about 40 miles or so of driving the valve covers were bowed out and the gaskets were blown out in 3 places on both sides of the engine. a friend told me i need to have the engine rebuilt and that this is the only way to fix the problems that im having out of my car. ive looked on ebay and yearone for engine rebuild kits because i would like to keep my origional engine block. does anyone have a good source to look for an engine rebuild kit? any advice is greatly appreciated. thankyou for your help,bill
 
ok new question saem thread. i found a rebuilt motor for my buick has no miles on it and has been sitting for about 8 years. that said im gettin it on wednesday and i was wondering how much work would be involved converting the new motor to bolt in and work properly with the tranny. the motor is a chevy 305 small block and the trans is a 2spd powerglide and advise would be greatly appreciated. thanks
 
64

Its mucher to rebuild your old motor then try to put a chevy in a buick. my 2 cents....:jeez:
 
id love to rebuild the old motor however the a rebuild kit for it is 1600 dollars and then id have to have the block machined and id like to have everything professionally done because of my lack of knowlage and experience in performing a task this major. and due to my very limited finances the chevy motor is far cheaper and more feasable at this point the chevy engine is only a temporary thing until i get the origional motor fixed
 
Did you cure the 0 psi compression problem? If not, it sounds like the rings (or a piston) and the escaping cylinder gasses are what is causing problems with the bowing valve covers. Could be a combined problem of a stuck valve getting smacked by a piston.

As for the Chevy option, You need to make sure the trans is a dual pattern. That means both the Chevy bolt pattern and the BOP (Buick/Olds/Pontiac) pattern. If it has both patterns (crawl under and see if there are a bunch of unused bolt holes) it should pretty much bolt up to the trans. If not, you'll need a different (Chevy) trans. Since you're changing (and spending) that much, you may as well go with a 3 speed (or O/D) trans but now we're talking some serious $. Especially if you are paying a shop to do all this.

A quick watch-out: I'd be wary of someone that spent your money to replace all the parts you already have when you have a 0 psi compression cylinder.

If you solve the trans problem, then there is the engine bolt in problem. I don't know (someone else will have to chime in here) if the motor mounts and frame brackets will fit between a Small Block Chevy and a 300. I know that the SBC was installed in the same body (A body) as your '64 Special (Chevy Chevelle/Malibu/El Camino). The holes in the frame for the motor mount brackets should be in the same place but the brackets and mounts may be different.

Does the new motor have all the accessory brackets? You'll need those as well.

That said (and being cheap now that I support a family), I'd at least diagnose your 300. The other cylinders seem to be good for an old car. I'd be willing to bet that if you asked questions and followed the advise here, we could walk you through the repairs and it could be done fairly cheap. Cheap as in re-ringing and new bearings. You'd be out a gasket set, rings and paying to have the block honed (if it's good) and hot tanked but that sounds like it would fix it. You don't need to replace every moving part! I used to do that as well but having no money makes you reuse stuff that you normally would replace and if you get a couple more years out of something that's free, so what?
 
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