Carburator issue

C

charlooze

Member
Hi,

I've a Buick Rivera 66 GS with 425 engine.
The previous owner has changed the carburator, now is an Edelbrock 1411 installed.
I've some issue with this carb I want to fix :
First one is that some part had not been reinstalled in the car. On the technical book 74b, it is called stator and detent switch.
Mine is not on the car actually, and I really don't know what it is for, and how to put it on the car again...
I saw that I 've 2 electric wires connected to nothing in this area....
- one is going to the gear box (automatic 400)
- one is connected to a switch on the accelerator. This particular switch is always off (no connectivity). I guess it should be closed sometimes when accelerating??

There is 5 electric points on the stator and detent switch, but with my two wires it will fit only 4 points on five available... What to put on the 5th?

I know my English is far from perfect, but I hope you could help....
 
The switches are related to the control of the switch pitch converter. I would try to find another Rochester for the engine and restore the proper switching.

There is a complete 1966 Chassis Manual in the reference section which will give you a reference for wiring and switches.
 
Hi,

Thanks for the answer. Here in France, finding an original Rochester will not be easy, but I'll think about it.

I've found in the manual some information in the Gearbox part, but it does not answer all my interrogations.

How does the swtich in the picture linked should react - at idle - a full acceleration ? Actually the switch is off (circuit is open) all the time. And the fact is that I don't even see how it could change. Maybe a part is missing ??
 

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At an idle, that switch engages the high stall on the torque converter, this takes load off the engine.
The switch should be closed at an idle and open immediately on movement of the throttle.

It plugs into the transmission kick down switch connected to the carburetor throttle linkage.

Click here to see Buick kickdown switches on Ebay
1
 
Switch pitch operation is very simple. There are two spade contacts on the side of the transmission, one is vertical, one is horizontal. The vertical is the kick down, the horizontal is the stator (stall) control. Apply 12 volts to the contact on the transmission, and you get high stall, remove the 12 volts, it reverts back to low stall, simple as that. There are two switches that control the switch pitch. One is the throttle plunger switch. That switch also signals the kick down. The other switch is up near the firewall. That switch puts the converter in high stall when the throttle is closed. The switch pitch works as follows. At closed throttle idle, the converter is in high stall. Off idle, the converter goes to low stall. At approximately 60% throttle, the transmission goes back to high stall and remains there as long as the throttle is held beyond that. At full throttle, the transmission kicks down. The kick down operates similarly, 12 volts to the transmission commands a kick down. Because of the valve body calibration, the SP transmissions will only kick down at full throttle. Buick intended the car to accelerate on high stall of the converter. More on that in this article,

http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/SPTrans.htm

If you want, you can hook up a simple momentary switch to control the switch pitch. Wire one side to ignition on 12 volts, the other side to the transmission. Push the switch for high stall, let it go for low stall.

There is an electronic box that uses 3 adjustable timer circuits and a vacuum switch to control the switch pitch. Made by a fellow by the name of Bruce Roe. It works great. I have used this box when I had my switch pitch in my 70 GS. There is some more info on Bruce's SP control box in this V8buick.com thread,

http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/s-p-st-300-bruce-roes-electronic-controller.190075/

http://s93.photobucket.com/user/bcroe/library/Switch Pitch Transmissions?sort=6&page=1

http://s93.photobucket.com/user/bcroe/Switch Pitch Transmissions/story
 

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I would tend to find the original wire that fed the switches and use it. Should be orange and a switched 12v.

I have updated this link with an image of the OE wiring: https://www.teambuick.com/reference/sp_400_wiring.php

If you go to the reference section, then the "Years" chart, '66, you will find wiring diagrams.

Also, near the bottom of the reference section page, you will find the complete '66 chassis manual.
 
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