Please tell me that it will be living on the road as a daily driver again...
I'd hate to see so much work for a car to be used as eye candy.
52 Special - Let's try to resurrect a survivor
- Thread starter bittmann
- Start date
I'd hate to see so much work for a car to be used as eye candy.
bittmann
Active Member
That's not my intention. I don't know how long I'll want to keep the old girl, but for now, it (as they say) "sparks joy" every time I see her. And something as straight and rust-free as she is, even with the old paint...she's aged gracefully. It would be a shame to erase all of her history for no good reason.
I need to finish buttoning up the engine - I have exhaust manifold issues to resolve as well as the freeze plugs, temp sender, heater valve, the one pushrod that was bent, and whatever else inevitably gets exposed by this exercise. I'm not going to go nuts, just try to give her what she needs to get running again.
And, after the engine is running reliably, I'll still have to turn my attention to the torque ball, which now drips continually. Nothing like disturbing a seal that's set quiet for 15-20+ years to make it grumpy!
My list is quite a bit shorter than it "was", but I have to admit - drilling/extracting/tapping/helicoiling cast manifolds doesn't excite me. So I've been delaying.
I need to finish buttoning up the engine - I have exhaust manifold issues to resolve as well as the freeze plugs, temp sender, heater valve, the one pushrod that was bent, and whatever else inevitably gets exposed by this exercise. I'm not going to go nuts, just try to give her what she needs to get running again.
And, after the engine is running reliably, I'll still have to turn my attention to the torque ball, which now drips continually. Nothing like disturbing a seal that's set quiet for 15-20+ years to make it grumpy!
My list is quite a bit shorter than it "was", but I have to admit - drilling/extracting/tapping/helicoiling cast manifolds doesn't excite me. So I've been delaying.
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bittmann
Active Member
Short update...over the past several months, I've found a usable exhaust manifold valve body/heat riser (only slightly cracked), got a crummy helicoil kit, taps and dies, and new hardware for the manifold-to-valve-body connection. Also new freeze plugs (got a brass plug for the back of the head, steel for the side of the block), all installed. By the way, if anyone needs a brass plug for their head, let me know. I bought a box of 10 online for less than the cost of one locally.
Managed to get the exhaust valve body torqued to spec...helicoil held, at least so far.
Head reinstalled. Interesting...the head gasket was labeled "top" and "front", but it would only fit "bottom" and "back". Embossed incorrectly? Must've been. Everything lined up correctly, all holes were open, the gasket indexed correctly on the positioning dowels. Torqued to 70 ft-lbs in 4 stages, smooth as butter.
Other stuff:
Found one bent pushrod, ordered a replacement. It wasn't horribly expensive, but shipping was disgusting. Still, I trust it further than just trying to straighten the tweaked one I have.
Bought an add-on temperature gauge. Hopefully the bulb seals in the head. If it does, I'll consider trying to solder it to the OEM gauge.
Next...valvetrain. Should make quicker progress since I think I finally have all the parts.
If the engine runs...I have 2 more leaks to kill - the heater control valve, and the torque ball. But one thing at a time!
Managed to get the exhaust valve body torqued to spec...helicoil held, at least so far.
Head reinstalled. Interesting...the head gasket was labeled "top" and "front", but it would only fit "bottom" and "back". Embossed incorrectly? Must've been. Everything lined up correctly, all holes were open, the gasket indexed correctly on the positioning dowels. Torqued to 70 ft-lbs in 4 stages, smooth as butter.
Other stuff:
Found one bent pushrod, ordered a replacement. It wasn't horribly expensive, but shipping was disgusting. Still, I trust it further than just trying to straighten the tweaked one I have.
Bought an add-on temperature gauge. Hopefully the bulb seals in the head. If it does, I'll consider trying to solder it to the OEM gauge.
Next...valvetrain. Should make quicker progress since I think I finally have all the parts.
If the engine runs...I have 2 more leaks to kill - the heater control valve, and the torque ball. But one thing at a time!
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firstofeight
Experienced Member
Beginning to wonder if you were still on it! Glad you are.
Ben
Ben
bittmann
Active Member
Rebuilt my heater control valve today. Think I did it correctly, I'm sure it'll let me know if it disagrees.
In the same vein as my head freeze plugs (could buy a box for less than a single plug locally), I found an open/partial box of Balkamp rubber seals (part# 6601000) that revive those old Ranco heater valves...for not much more than NAPA would have charged me for one of 'em. So, if anyone needs one, let me know!
In the same vein as my head freeze plugs (could buy a box for less than a single plug locally), I found an open/partial box of Balkamp rubber seals (part# 6601000) that revive those old Ranco heater valves...for not much more than NAPA would have charged me for one of 'em. So, if anyone needs one, let me know!
bittmann
Active Member
Lifters in, after quite a struggle. Rockers on, and lash adjusted.
Wanted to check that all of the rockers were oiling, so I pumped it up by hand.
And found that my *new* push rod (purchased last year) *leaks horribly* between the top cap and the tube.
Egge has a 12-month warranty. It's been just over 12 months. I guess I'll see how they treat me.
Darn. Still, that's progress. I guess you take what you can get.
Wanted to check that all of the rockers were oiling, so I pumped it up by hand.
And found that my *new* push rod (purchased last year) *leaks horribly* between the top cap and the tube.
Egge has a 12-month warranty. It's been just over 12 months. I guess I'll see how they treat me.
Darn. Still, that's progress. I guess you take what you can get.
bittmann
Active Member
Howdy Sir, I've always been a Buick nut so I'm thrilled a Buick is what caught your eye and drew you to the GM side. My dad and I have been working on a few '59 Buicks. It's nice to see you save another Buick from neglect!
You mentioned you're in the Wichita KS area. I live in MI, but I'm originally from Great Bend KS and my family moved to the Wichita area. I usually visit my family in July, I'd love to meet up sometime if you're able. My dad and I love the 50s Buicks and Oldsmobile's and it's always fun to meet other enthusiasts. Let me know if you'd be interested.
Looking forward to more progress on this rig!
You mentioned you're in the Wichita KS area. I live in MI, but I'm originally from Great Bend KS and my family moved to the Wichita area. I usually visit my family in July, I'd love to meet up sometime if you're able. My dad and I love the 50s Buicks and Oldsmobile's and it's always fun to meet other enthusiasts. Let me know if you'd be interested.
Looking forward to more progress on this rig!
bittmann
Active Member
Just to sweep things forward and link in some other threads
Head is bolted back down, new freeze plugs in place, and a new push rod installed. I had no chance of removing the temp sender bulb without breaking the capillary tube, so I have a hopefully temporary aftermarket sender that will hopefully seal in the head. Also learned that the push rod tubes on a 263 with hydraulic lifters are supposed to leak "excess oil" around the push rod cap.
Had several lifters with galled faces. The cam looked OK, so purchased some replacement lifters. Which are enough larger in diameter than the originals that they wouldn't willingly slide in without extensive cleaning. After way too much work, finally persevered. A new, lubricated, lifter placed in its bore will slide down to the cam all by itself.
I need to get this thing back together! Have delayed long enough. Want to get a few heat cycles through it, re-torque the head, make sure the heater valve doesn't still leak, and prove the engine in. See if it's worth taking the NEXT step. Torque ball.
Head is bolted back down, new freeze plugs in place, and a new push rod installed. I had no chance of removing the temp sender bulb without breaking the capillary tube, so I have a hopefully temporary aftermarket sender that will hopefully seal in the head. Also learned that the push rod tubes on a 263 with hydraulic lifters are supposed to leak "excess oil" around the push rod cap.
Had several lifters with galled faces. The cam looked OK, so purchased some replacement lifters. Which are enough larger in diameter than the originals that they wouldn't willingly slide in without extensive cleaning. After way too much work, finally persevered. A new, lubricated, lifter placed in its bore will slide down to the cam all by itself.
I need to get this thing back together! Have delayed long enough. Want to get a few heat cycles through it, re-torque the head, make sure the heater valve doesn't still leak, and prove the engine in. See if it's worth taking the NEXT step. Torque ball.
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bittmann
Active Member
Realized I hadn't updated. We're on the road again! Not even close to done, of course. Need to free up the parking brake. Need to decide if I'm going to risk attempting to solder the replacement thermometer's bulb to the old in-dash gauge. Torque ball still leaks like the Exxon Valdez. Have a busted vent cable on the driver's side. Weather stripping is all cracked and/or shrunken - where it still exists anyway. Speedo still reads hella fast.
But it runs, stops, charges, doesn't get hot, signals work...nothing keeping it from rolling around. Nice.
Realized driving home after dark that I have no instrument lights. I've checked bulbs - they're good. The instrument- and map-light connections to the light switch look correct also. But neither the map lights nor the instrument lights come on when you twist the switch.
I suppose the next thing to try is hosing down the light switch guts with contact cleaner to see if that'll accidentally work. If it won't - heck, I'm not opposed to just wiring the instrument lights to the headlight terminal.
And the headlights themselves? They remind me of the lights on my lawnmower. More of a "useful for determining what you just ran into" situation than something you'd actually want to use for driving. To that end, I've purchased a couple of halogen-compatible headlight shells, and a couple of reasonable-looking but inexpensive (and fanless) H4 6V LED "bulbs" to see if I can get enough light to see by. If the LEDs work, I might eventually spring for some that are "better", but for now, anything has to be better than those dim yellow sealed-beams - one of which is cracked.
Interesting - just looked. The cracked one is a GUIDE lamp (the "old" one, not a T-3. I think these were discontinued in 55, maybe?). The other one is marked GE. Neither of them have the modern "guide bumps" for aligning headlights.
But it runs, stops, charges, doesn't get hot, signals work...nothing keeping it from rolling around. Nice.
Realized driving home after dark that I have no instrument lights. I've checked bulbs - they're good. The instrument- and map-light connections to the light switch look correct also. But neither the map lights nor the instrument lights come on when you twist the switch.
I suppose the next thing to try is hosing down the light switch guts with contact cleaner to see if that'll accidentally work. If it won't - heck, I'm not opposed to just wiring the instrument lights to the headlight terminal.
And the headlights themselves? They remind me of the lights on my lawnmower. More of a "useful for determining what you just ran into" situation than something you'd actually want to use for driving. To that end, I've purchased a couple of halogen-compatible headlight shells, and a couple of reasonable-looking but inexpensive (and fanless) H4 6V LED "bulbs" to see if I can get enough light to see by. If the LEDs work, I might eventually spring for some that are "better", but for now, anything has to be better than those dim yellow sealed-beams - one of which is cracked.
Interesting - just looked. The cracked one is a GUIDE lamp (the "old" one, not a T-3. I think these were discontinued in 55, maybe?). The other one is marked GE. Neither of them have the modern "guide bumps" for aligning headlights.
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Bogframe
Member
Silly question, but did you check the fuses? I had the same problem in my 54 Special and a new fuse did the job.
bittmann
Active Member
In 52, Buick didn't believe in fuses for lighting 
. There's a thermal fuse (a self-resetting overload breaker) in the headlight switch itself. That drives the head and tail lights, parking lights, instrument lights, and map lights. Oh, and the tag illumination light. Nothing between that switch and the battery but copper. Better hope you don't mess anything up!
So, if you have headlights, you have power. I have headlights. I just think my switch is having problems.
. There's a thermal fuse (a self-resetting overload breaker) in the headlight switch itself. That drives the head and tail lights, parking lights, instrument lights, and map lights. Oh, and the tag illumination light. Nothing between that switch and the battery but copper. Better hope you don't mess anything up!So, if you have headlights, you have power. I have headlights. I just think my switch is having problems.
Bogframe
Member
If it's corrosion, There;s this stuff called DeOxit stereo addicts use on their pots and sliders. It's worth a shot.In 52, Buick didn't believe in fuses for lighting
So, if you have headlights, you have power. I have headlights. I just think my switch is having problems.
DeoxIT D5 Contact Cleaner and Spray Products
Shop DeoxIT D5 contact cleaner sprays and fader lubricants available at Home Depot for effective maintenance.
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