1966/67 Skylark Gran Sport

[Copperhead]

Out with the old...

 

[Copperhead]

...and that's not going to work!!!!

 

[Copperhead]

Yay this one works. While trying to put the pin in the lower brake pedal hole, I discovered there was a little flash on the hole so I had to take the pedal assembly apart. And then I discovered the clutch arm was held on with literally a bent finishing nail. Also the bushings were shot. All fixed now.

 

[Copperhead]

Well all of that and the new "1" lower springs are really 2+" low. Can't get the jack under the front crossmember and the headers scrape on everything lol. So we will go ahead and do the rear suspension to get an actual stance and replace the front springs accordingly. The voltage regulator in the previous picture went out. New $90.00 electro mechanical unit did not work right so was returned. I bought a solid state unit that looks like original and plugs right in and actually functions correctly, half the price. I do not want to go to a one wire alternator as I like the Gen light, if I lose a belt I will immediately know my water pump isn't spinning.

 

[Copperhead]

Onwards to the rear. Car came with a new gas tank, not installed. Old one with patch is not leaking, but may as well put the new one in since I'm there.

 

[Copperhead]

Well that turned out to be a good call. Lots of extra room to work on the rear suspension. You can see the relocated tailpipes, old ones crossed over to outside the frame rails through the wheel well and would not allow the 255's to fit.

 

[Copperhead]

Going with aftermarket control arms. Cost is a wash with replacing bushings in the old ones, new hardware and pressing service. Also I am going to do one side at a time as to avoid losing rear end location and rotation with everything apart, as I would have to do to take all the arms in to be pressed at one time. Hopefully this will go quickly.

 

[GL03]

OK - I owe you photos and updates. Primarily, I want to say I am 100% satisfied with the purchase, and with the kind gentleman I purchased it from. I am journaling our efforts to improve the vehicle, and I am not at all disgruntled nor criticizing whatever the history, or the previous endeavors completed on this car.
First phase is to make it safer and easier to drive and enjoy for my wife.
Previous owner stated there were some front-end issues, witnessed by the front tire wear. Bumper was pushed up and into the driver fender and hanging low on the passenger side. Car was 3/4" lower on passenger side. Whether all these factors are related or caused simultaneously I do not know.
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The later made cars have a 5mph bumper. If u remove the bumper car on your wife's vehicle you can see that it is a bumper with two shocks. (You can search part images too) If you wanted to explore incorporating something to your car, in a 5mph collision you wouldn't get bumpers pushed in again, because bumper shocks would absorb impact.

 

[Copperhead]

Well as always one thing leads to another. I have to weld up one of the control arm mounts, just the hole elongated, probably tack a thick washer or small plate over it. Gas tank filler neck salvaged, I have to solder it in the new tank. Just picked up some #8, boy that stuff is getting pricey.
Bushings are fighting me coming out of the differential ears. I will rig up something to pull them out. Air chisel trick did not work.

 

[Nato1966]

Well as always one thing leads to another. I have to weld up one of the control arm mounts, just the hole elongated, probably tack a thick washer or small plate over it. Gas tank filler neck salvaged, I have to solder it in the new tank. Just picked up some #8, boy that stuff is getting pricey.
Bushings are fighting me coming out of the differential ears. I will rig up something to pull them out. Air chisel trick did not work.

Hey Copperhead, nice work on your GS. I got a similar UMI replacement 4 link setup for my '66GS. I used a bushing press to push/pull out the rubber core. Not much work or effort there. Then with the core removed I used my sawzall to cut thru the outer metal housing that was still pressed in the diff. It's not very thick metal and once it's cut it came right out. Hard to see the cut in picture. I just had to be careful and make sure I didn't cut thru the bushing housing and into the "ear"on the diff. Regardless, Good luck and thanks for sharing your build!

PS - I've been really happy with the setup. No squeaks, a lot less bounce, much more "planted" in turns. I also added the rear sway bar however.

 

[Copperhead]

Removed the bushings ok with a threaded tool. The one I started with and had to regroup, required much force, but the one I didn't initially mess with came out easy with the right tool. Stock height springs are too low. With weights in the trunk to simulate a full tank of gas the fender lip is sitting literally on the tire. 1" spring spacers coming today. I ordered 5-1/4" back space, 8" rims for the back, about three weeks out. The spring spacers should give me enough to install the gas tank and put a couple gallons in it safely. Tires will clear full suspension travel with the correct rims. Mounted tires are 10.2" wide, 3/8" interference with the fender and 1-1/2" clear on the frame. P255 R60 x 15