1960 LeSabre 4drsd will NOT Reverse! What's wrong!!!

YESSSSS!!!!

Guys thanks so much for your help. Tom, you're a genius, followed your instructions and mademy switch work PERFECTLY!!! Opened tabs, bearings and springs popped out a bit but was able to figure it out. Sanded the black lightly off the brass contacts and reassemled. Didn't grease because I didn't know what kind, looks like there's some dry grease residue on the contacts plate, kinda like white lithium grease. Oh well, I can open up later and grease. The contacts feel nice and firm, maybe the grease will make it smoother.

Any thoughts?

Overall, I can't tell you how exciting this is for me... one step closer to making it street legal and operable.

Thanks,
Joseph
 
For the most part ANY type of grease. Di-Electric would be good. I use Kendahl Super Blue wheel bearing grease as it does not contain any graphite. Those tabs aren't meant to be "Bent" many times. You can only get away with it MAYBE two times then they will break off. If that does happen sometimes you can hold it together with tie straps. Try spraying some grease from a can into it & see if that "Frees" it up to slide a little better.

Tom T.
 
Hey Tom,

Thanks for the advise, I'll use the thin straw from my white lithium grease can to sparay some inside. Good call on bending those tabs, I'll remember that.

Well since I'm very happy how well (or constant) my brake and turn signals work, time to move to yet another electrical problem and pick your brain, if you don't mind. I have never seen The instrument panel or dash lit up, even after I changed every little bulb in the circuit oard, many were burnt out. I have tried to trace wires to find the problem and it leads to the fuse box, there isn't any power going to either terminal on the left or right of the small fuse. I don't know where to go from there or what would cause this.

You think you can please share any suggestions?

Once again, Thank you,
Joseph
 
Breather hose from gas tank?

Hello,

This might be a dumb question, but is there supposed to be some kind of breather hose connected on the top of the gas tank coiming out of the small wall where the gas tank filler tube comes out of? On my 60 LeSabre when you pull the plates down to fill up, obviously theres a bigger round hole where the tank peeks out of, and to the left of it there's a smaller hole and some kind of clip to hang something on. I looked through and I see some kind of breather pipe from the tank.

I'm just trying to put everything back on this Buick that was meant to be there in the first place to serve a purpose. As small and insignificant as it may be. And have all the ‘bells and whistles’ working.

Any thoughts would help.

Thanks,
Joseph
 
Simple answer is yes. I suspect that you don't have a copy of the 1960 Chassis and Body service manuals, and if so, you should invest in some.
 
Cool Thanks,

I actually do own BOTH books. Some times find it hard to find the answers that I need, or get overwhelmed by so much text. I couldn't find a diagram on vacuume hoses la few days back, which is why I asked as well, I thought that would've been in the book. But I'll search for both again when I get home... I was just searching around the internet for a quick answer and thought I would ask the fine experts from this site.

Thanks again 60electra225, and Tom.
 
Tranny no Reverse

A close solution to my original problem about the Reverse not working might be solved sooner than later, Hopefully.

63LeSabrenewbee had a post about his 63 dripping fluid when it sat for long periods, saw that he's in San Diego so I contacted him about his rebuilt tranny. Recommended me to a shop that have done Dynaflows and gave me 2 rough quotes.

Worst case scenario being everything needs to be replaced, they will charge me about $1,500.

BEST case scenario if the band fell off (as Tom mentioned before) they'll charge 90 BUCKS!!! WOW!!! Can't wait to get it to them and hopefully get it fixed!!!

THANKS 63LeSabrenewbee!!!
 
The fuse for the panel lights will only have power when at least the parking lights are on. Otherwise, NO POWER to the fuse. If you have power to the fuse & the dash lights still don't work it's more than likely the variable resistor on the headlight switch. If the fuse has power turn on the lights & play with the headlight switch & rotate the knob left & right while watching the dash lights. If you can see them flicker, best done in a dark area, then the resister on the switch is bad. Same scenario as the turn signal switch, take apart, clean, bend contact & lube, unless it's broken or just worn out. I believe the switch is still available from NAPA. If your resistor is N/G, burned out, it can also be replaced. If the switch is NOT available just buy ANY switch that has a resistor & swap them out. You may have to look at a few to get one that's the correct size.

Tom T.
 
Tom,

Sounds great, I'll do that when I get home and hopefully have some luck.

The only lights that have always turned on are HOT and GEN. And the left blinker used to, now it doesn't.

I'll work on it and report back.

I appreciate all your help..
 
Hey Tom,

There is NO power in fuse box AT ALL. Not when ignition is on, or lights are on, or when I'm turning the knob.

Where's the next place to look? Under the hood at some of the relays?
Some bolts, screws, and wires are a little rusted.

Can you please shed some more light on my lack of light situation?
 
Hello all,

Does anyone know why I'm not getting any power into my fuse box on some terminals? Dash lights on my 60 lesabre won't turn on.. not even when car is on, lights are on, and I'm turning the knob on the resistor. Bulbs on printed circuit board are all new.

Both terminals on "inst. Lights" on fuse box don't have power. On the back of the box its those 2 white wires, 1 to light switch and 1 to circuit board, neither have power.

Help please?

Thanks in advance
 
A bad connection at the light switch containing the white wire. When you turn on the parking or headlights this wire should have power. Like I said the rheostat/resistor could be bad or just a bad connection like the signal switch.

Tom T.
 
Hey Tom,

Thanks I'll try that, I'm just concerned and worried because I have never had power in this area since I began the restoration. But if you say there will be power once there's a connection then I believe you. I hope your right again.
 
Tom,

YOU'RE A GENIUS!! IT WORKED!! First time I've seen the inside light up! And power on those terminals in fuse box! You were so right again.

But, I have to turn the knob to find the spot, and I can't be driving it like that, you know, sometimes working.. is there a spot where its supposed to 'click' and turn on? I'll take the switch off again if I must.

Also one of the terminals frim the glove box has no power (same case only its just 1 side) there's a new bulb and fuse. Is it the glove box switch?
 
This is a very common problem with older cars, and the rheostat. Most people just bypass the switch - after all, how often do you ever dim the dash lights ? Most likely never, as they were never bright to begin with, and that is part of the problem as the switch sat in the same position for 30 or 40 years and the rest just got dirtier and dirtier. It is the same for the power seat tracks. Once the position is set, they hardly ever move again until someone new comes along and wants a different position. Often, the cable will snap as the seat is frozen in position and needs to be lubed. Same for power windows, etc. etc. The list goes on..............
 
Thanks 60electra225,

You're right I wouldn't wanna dim the dash lights, I want them as BRIGHT as possible.

What happens when you bypass the switch. How would I do that or what do I need?

I do wanna be able to turn on the dash lights we no hassle and no problems.

Thanks!!! Hope to hear back!
 
There is two wires - one going to either side of the rheostat. All you need to do is run jumper wire between them, and the rheostat will be rendered superfluous. It's obviously easier to see once the switch is out of the dash, but all the rheostat does is to increase the resistance thereby dimming the lights.
 
I think I see what you mean. Its dark now so I'll check tomorrow.

Do I have to cut the wires and splice the jumper? Or solder onto the plug that connects to the switch?
 
You just need to find the two wires that connect to the rheostat and you can either just solder them together, or solder in a piece of wire to join them. Unfortunately I don't have a spare switch here that I can take a photo of, and the one in the car actually works !
 
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