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Thread: ph level of coolant

  1. #1
    damslick Guest

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    I'm a nailhead guy but this question pertains to any auto with aluminum parts. What is the ideal ph factor of 50/50 coolant and antifreeze? I'm thinking it should be in the middle of the scale. But what if it isn't? What do I use to raise or lower the ph? I have an aluminum radiator and would like it to last as long as possible. Thanks for any feed back. By the way the ph level on my coolant now is about 10.

  2. Post

    a while back, someone told me that you could perform an electrical test on antifreeze. if the fluid indicated any type of electrical charge the mixture should be dumped.

    I will have to research my material, and find out the exact specs.

    Tom Gallagher
    Thanking YOU, for YOUR Valued Cooperation and Experience in This Matter.

    NOSTALGIA Is A DEVICE That REMOVES The RUTS and POTHOLES From MEMORY LANE.
    Tom Gallagher (BUICK BANSHEE)
    1956 Buick Special 2 Door H/Top 46R: Red & White
    Darlington Station, RI. 02861

  3. #3

    Post

    The way I understand it...

    The electrical aspect of coolant is related to diesel engines. You do a litmus paper test and add dca to it. It is very important to do this with diesels because the electrical charge will bore holes right through your block or head. Equipment for this is readily available at any heavy truck dealer. This is not the problem with aluminium.

    I am not aware of the ph relevance with aluminium. I am aware that an aluminium motor requires aluminium compatible antifreeze. This is what most modern antifreeze is except for specific diesel antifreeze. I run diesel antifeeze in all my engines except ones with aluminium block and heads. The high heat area is where you will find the aluminium breaks down, not in areas like thermostat covers or radiators.

    If you use an aluminium compatible antifreeze (universal), you will eventually notice a white deposit build up in your radiator. This is silica which will reduce flows and eventually cause problems.

    As far as PH level of the water is concerned, I believe you should be using "distilled" water (no one ever does) . You can buy it at your grocery store. Not sping water or whatever, "distilled" water.
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  4. #4
    ICE-MAN Guest

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    G'DAY DAMSLICK; HERE IN OZ WE DO NOT GO BY PH BUT BY STRAY CURENT. YOU CAN CHECK IT WITH THIS PROCEDURE; 1. REMOVE RAD CAP & RUN TO OPERATING TEMP WITHOUT REVVING. 2.SWITCH ON ALL ELECTRICAL ITEMS (DRIVING LIGHTS,PHONE,ECT).3.SWITCH AN ANALOGUE MULTIMETER TO A 3 OR 5V.DC SCALE.4.PLACE THE NEG LEAD OF METER TO NEG BATTERY DIP POS LEAD INTO COOLANT WITHOUT TOUCHING RAD OR CORE.5.A READING OF MORE THAN 0.5V.INDICATES THE PRESENCE OF DAMAGING STRAY CURRANT.IDEALLY THE VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 0.V.HOWWEVER YOU WILL ALWAYS GET SOME. 6.IF NO CURRANT IS FOUND REPEAT STEP 4 WITH ENGINE OFF. 7.IF CURRANT IS FOUND ISOLATE THE CIRCUIT BY TURNING ELECTRICAL ITEMS OFF & SWITCHING EACH CIRCUIT ON INDIVIDUALLY. WHEN THIS IS DONE THE REST SHOULD TAKE CAER OF IT SELF.THIS IS A BIG PART OF THE PROBLUME OUT HERE IN OZ. HOPE THIS HELP'S. THE ICE-MAN.

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