Why put bushings in rear lower control arms 70 skylark

[waterwolf]

I'm just throwing this out. But for excellent handling wouldn't you want to run solid control arm bushings in the rear lower control arms? Then taking this another step forward, why not eliminate the bushing, and make a solid boxed lower arm with some sacrifical surface between the arm and frame connection? Possible a aluminum or polyurathane washer so you don't have steel on steel, yet very rigid of course. I do realize that you would have more suspension/road noise with this set up. But it would take pretty much all the flex/roll out of the rear. Suggestions or ideas let me know. I'm thinking of firing up the welder.

[raycow]

With solid bushings and rigid enough control arms you will lift the inside wheel on corners. The loss of traction could be worse for handling than allowing some body roll.

Ray

[carmantx]

We run the solid adjustable arms on street driven car. Also have the rear drag bar set up on it. It currently is set up for leave hard, and straight from dead stop. 1.38 60' with street tires. Soon, it will be set up more for cornering. The front suspension will have to be set up different for that. Rear should be good as is.

We have adjustable uppers and lowers to set the pinion angle.

[raycow]

Carmantx, yours look like they have heim ends, which should be fine for cornering. I think waterwolf wants to make boxed control arms which are stiffer than stock and then run solid bushings in them.

Ray

[waterwolf]

Yes, basically a solid rectangle tube with holes for the bolts. A sacrifical wear surface like a aluminum washer between the tube and the frame mounts/rear end. Possibly a teflon inner sleeve for the bolts to eliminate friction. A 1" sway bar would also be used. Would that be too rigid for the street?

The intent is to have a solid rear suspension for increased handeling and elimination of wheel hop. And of course save some money by doing it myself.

Okay I have my clown mask on now, let the beatings begin!

[Bob]

I didn't go so extreme, but here's what I did...

http://www.teambuick.com/forums/view..._trailing_arms

[waterwolf]

Nice write up. What was the total length of the lower arms? Also have you upgraded the upper arms, or do you suggest an adjustable upper?

[raycow]

Okay I have my clown mask on now, let the beatings begin!

Where have you been getting your information? It's been years since we beat up anyone here.

That setup will be fine for straight-line street/strip work, as long as you don't mind the noise/harshness. My only concern would be that if you need to do any hard cornering you will lift the inside wheel off the ground and start sliding sideways.

Ray

[jenny13]

From the factory I've seen on 12 bolts the upper drivers side arms had a small reinforcement plate spot welded over the bolt hole from the factory and is slightly notched to allow clearance for the rear housing. The passanger side is the same as 10 bolts. I'm not sure what you would get as an over the counter replacment part but the modified arm will fit on the passanger side with no issues.

[waterwolf]

I didn't go so extreme, but here's what I did...

http://www.teambuick.com/forums/view..._trailing_arms

Nice write up Bob. I wondering how far out the bushings protrudes on each side? Or is one side out more then the other? I have all my holes drilled, and will weld the energy suspension bushing shell directly to the bar.

Flanged side?
Non flanged side?