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Thread: STR-8 oiling system

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  1. STR-8 oiling system

    Gerry, thanks for the pics! Your oiling system caught my attention. I am wondering if you managed to route 100% of the oil thru the filter, and if yes, how did you modify the main oil gallery to accomplish this?

    I remember someone else on this forum had also a full filtered system, but I forgot to ask how he did it. So here's your chance to spill your secrets! Anyone?

    I'm also interested to hear if people have kept the Buick "floating" pickup tube functional. In principle it's kind of smart, but I don't know if it might cause the pump to suck air under some conditions?

  2. Quote Originally Posted by Jyrki View Post
    Gerry, thanks for the pics! Your oiling system caught my attention. I am wondering if you managed to route 100% of the oil thru the filter, and if yes, how did you modify the main oil gallery to accomplish this?

    I remember someone else on this forum had also a full filtered system, but I forgot to ask how he did it. So here's your chance to spill your secrets! Anyone?

    I'm also interested to hear if people have kept the Buick "floating" pickup tube functional. In principle it's kind of smart, but I don't know if it might cause the pump to suck air under some conditions?
    The Buick has the same setup as the early GMC truck engines.

    http://www.inliners.org/tech/full_flo_GMC.html

  3. More questions re full flow systems

    Buick Guy, Jenz 38 and all the rest, greetings from Australia. I'm retoring a 1947 Buick Super, body off and a complete rebuild of the engine.
    I've read with great interest all the posts and decided to modify my engine as well.
    I have a few questions re the actual tapping and drilling of the block.
    How did you drill the oil gallery holes? Did you just centre punch the spot and use a hand drill getting bigger each time or did you get it done at a machine shop?
    How did you measure the internal size of the gallery to tap the thread for the plug to block the gallery so the oil goes to the filter?
    Do you think an10 is bigenough to allow sufficient flow for the oil?
    I have contacted Cars Inc who said that the filters replacemnts they sell are made of modern material and construction so I hoped to use the old canister for the filter for originality.
    Just where is the plug placed (how far up) to block the vertical gallery and where is the gallery tapped for the return or is it obvious when looking at the block what and where to do it? I'm at work in Papua New Guinea at the moment and don't have the block to look at as I think of these questions.
    May I have some detailed pictures of you drillings so I don't screw my block up? Would hate to do so after so much work on the rebuild so far. Found this thread just in time as I was about to put the crankshaft and pistons in.
    For Buick Guy, does your filter drain back to the sump over time being on its side? And is there a reason that it is mounted horizontally not vertically?
    The more I research the whole rebuild scene the more I find out and want to do. Howevre time is against me and I want to finish the car before I get too old to enjoy it and become a menace to all other road users. Been going on for ten years now hopefully only a couple left!
    Thanks in advance for the help.

    Trackless

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Location
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    Hi Trackless
    the Oilhole between Pump and Gallerie is at my Block the correct ID for cut in careful a (Metric)M 16 Thread without predrilling. For the Plug i use a schortend (0.5 Inch long)M 16 Screw with a cut in, to turn it in with a Screwdriver. the plug is saved with Loctite Blue for Threads .I have it
    all drilled with hand,the outside Extra Holes to. but the Engine was disassembled and dry for complete clean out all Lines after drilling.
    For the setting the Plug You must meassure how deep is the beginning of the Maingallerie,thats the End from Your M 16 thread. And
    under the installed Plug You drill the Outsidecomming Fitting.

    Thats my Version

    Is it OK,Buick Guy ?

    Greetz
    Jenz

    '38 Special Coupe
    LIFTERS CC GERMANY

  5. Smile Thanks

    Jenz 38,
    Thanks for your reply, given me new hope that I can do it myself and not stuff it all up!
    Will keep intouch and let the mob know how I go when I get home.
    Thanks again

    Trackless

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    N.-Germany
    Posts
    109
    Journal Entries
    1
    OK,let me/us hear how's your project going on . Greetings to the other Side of the World
    Jenz

    '38 Special Coupe
    LIFTERS CC GERMANY

  7. YOu can see my full filter system here. It is the two oil lines below the dizzy. YOu need to tap the block in two spots, as seen. Then put a plug in from the oil pan side so the oil is all forced to the filter then back to the galley.


  8. Thanks for the info, 36 Century, I think I got the idea now. You plug the channel going from the pump to the main galley, just before the galley. Then you drill and tap a new hole from outside of the block, into that channel above the pump, route it thru a filter and back to the main galley.

    But where is your filter?

    Did you modify the pump or pickup in any way?

    Did you keep that restricted fitting on the head that restricts oil flow to the rocker arm shaft? I would say my 320 has suffered from inadequate flow to the #7 and #8 rocker arms, and the rockers had worn out, as were the lifters. When I reassembled the engine, I primed the oil system with an electric drill, and it seems to take a very long time until you see oil flowing from the rearmost rockers. So I don't see any reason to limit the oil flow to the valvetrain, other than to limit oil consumption thru the valve guides.

    The shop manual recommends 20 weight oil (SAE 20), which seems a bit thin, but I'm not sure if the viscosity specifications of the 40's are comparable to today's specs. I assume they are. I have been using a SAE 30 oil (5W30), and the oil pressure is normal. At least there's no need to go any heavier.

  9. Straight 8 lifters

    Quote Originally Posted by Jyrki View Post
    Thanks for the info, 36 Century, I think I got the idea now. You plug the channel going from the pump to the main galley, just before the galley. Then you drill and tap a new hole from outside of the block, into that channel above the pump, route it thru a filter and back to the main galley.

    But where is your filter?

    Did you modify the pump or pickup in any way?

    Did you keep that restricted fitting on the head that restricts oil flow to the rocker arm shaft? I would say my 320 has suffered from inadequate flow to the #7 and #8 rocker arms, and the rockers had worn out, as were the lifters. When I reassembled the engine, I primed the oil system with an electric drill, and it seems to take a very long time until you see oil flowing from the rearmost rockers. So I don't see any reason to limit the oil flow to the valvetrain, other than to limit oil consumption thru the valve guides.

    The shop manual recommends 20 weight oil (SAE 20), which seems a bit thin, but I'm not sure if the viscosity specifications of the 40's are comparable to today's specs. I assume they are. I have been using a SAE 30 oil (5W30), and the oil pressure is normal. At least there's no need to go any heavier.
    HI I wanted to ask a question about a 1950 248. I also plan on converting to full filter flow but I was wondering if you can run hydraulic lifters from a 263 in the 248? Thanks Clint

  10. straight 8

    Jyrki,
    Here's a shot of the full flow filter on the SaltCat. Doug
    Last edited by Buick Guy; 02-02-2009 at 08:37 AM.

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