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		<title>Team Buick</title>
		<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums</link>
		<description>Featuring, Buick performance, bracket racing, and restoration, with the Buick straight 8, nailhead, and second generation V-8s, Buick classifieds.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:38:48 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Team Buick</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums</link>
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			<title>possible too much play in new timing chain</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17654&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:49:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[just recently bought a nice 71 skylark unfinished project  i'm preparing to pull the "whoever?remanufactured" 455 to check the bottom end clearances. i felt some play in what looks to be a new timing chain set in this rebuilt block, everything looks fresh unused,motor has not been fired yet. im new to buicks after 24 yrs of running amc amxs and chevelles,pontiacs.and dont remember this much slack,could it be wrong size cam bearings and crank bearing adding up for this slack effect?or is it my...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>just recently bought a nice 71 skylark unfinished project  i'm preparing to pull the &quot;whoever?remanufactured&quot; 455 to check the bottom end clearances. i felt some play in what looks to be a new timing chain set in this rebuilt block, everything looks fresh unused,motor has not been fired yet. im new to buicks after 24 yrs of running amc amxs and chevelles,pontiacs.and dont remember this much slack,could it be wrong size cam bearings and crank bearing adding up for this slack effect?or is it my imagination.its about 1/4 or more inch flop.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=87"><![CDATA[1970's Buick Tech]]></category>
			<dc:creator>80sguitarcarguy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17654</guid>
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			<title>425 Block Identification</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17653&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:45:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Guys: 
I have studied Darwin Falks reference work on the 425 block ID and I have one of the blocks with the lug bored to 401 the casting number is 1364705 which is 401/425 my question "is this casting safe to bore to STD 425"? The motor is going in a Hotrod so matching numbers is not an issue I just cannot tell from Darwin's work if there were blocks with the machining lug that were cast specifically for 401 only or were they all 425. I also have another block that has the same casting number...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Guys:<br />
I have studied Darwin Falks reference work on the 425 block ID and I have one of the blocks with the lug bored to 401 the casting number is 1364705 which is 401/425 my question &quot;is this casting safe to bore to STD 425&quot;? The motor is going in a Hotrod so matching numbers is not an issue I just cannot tell from Darwin's work if there were blocks with the machining lug that were cast specifically for 401 only or were they all 425. I also have another block that has the same casting number without the lug but both appear to have the same bore spacing?? Can anyone clear this up once and for all before I buy 425 pistons I cannot use!<br />
 <br />
Thanks<br />
Mark</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=76">Nailhead, 264, 322, 364, 401, 425</category>
			<dc:creator>mleonber</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17653</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[buick 350's]]></title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17652&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:47:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[will a 455 intake work on a 350? i have a 68 special 4 door, and i want to upgrade to a 4 barrel? what about hei's, what will fit? thanks, oren]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>will a 455 intake work on a 350? i have a 68 special 4 door, and i want to upgrade to a 4 barrel? what about hei's, what will fit? thanks, oren</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=93">215, 300, 340, 350...</category>
			<dc:creator>buhogmonstr</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17652</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>tremec 6 speed or tranzilla</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17651&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:27:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i would like to know if they made somethin for buick like they do for chevy</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i would like to know if they made somethin for buick like they do for chevy</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=79">Drivelines...</category>
			<dc:creator>ben455ss</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17651</guid>
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			<title>Change transmission</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17650&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:46:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have one of the small displacement straight-eights with a 3 speed.  It is, naturally, set up for a closed driveshaft.  Does anyone know of another transmission, one set up for an open driveshaft, that will bolt directly to the engine with no big buck spacer plates?  I can handle a new clutch disk or pilot bearing if needed.  I just need to get an open driveshaft.  This is not for use in a Buick chassis.  I hope to either use a 9 inch or 8 inch Ford rear end, and the driveshaft will be very...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have one of the small displacement straight-eights with a 3 speed.  It is, naturally, set up for a closed driveshaft.  Does anyone know of another transmission, one set up for an open driveshaft, that will bolt directly to the engine with no big buck spacer plates?  I can handle a new clutch disk or pilot bearing if needed.  I just need to get an open driveshaft.  This is not for use in a Buick chassis.  I hope to either use a 9 inch or 8 inch Ford rear end, and the driveshaft will be very short.<br />
Thanks<br />
Doc</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=84"><![CDATA[Pre '50 Buick Tech]]></category>
			<dc:creator>cardoc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17650</guid>
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			<title>Just got a 59 Electra and need help with the codes</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17649&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:32:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi I am Joe and new to buick.  Been a Caddy guy my whole life but while going through an old scrap yard i came across a 1959 Electra 225 rag top. 
  
I am not sure what i am going to do with it, restore or sell? 
  
Here is what is on the cowl tag.  I need to know what options this car had. 
  
Style 59 4867 
Body FB     4632 
ACC D4  B  E  17  UG X</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi I am Joe and new to buick.  Been a Caddy guy my whole life but while going through an old scrap yard i came across a 1959 Electra 225 rag top.<br />
 <br />
I am not sure what i am going to do with it, restore or sell?<br />
 <br />
Here is what is on the cowl tag.  I need to know what options this car had.<br />
 <br />
Style 59 4867<br />
Body FB     4632<br />
ACC D4  B  E  17  UG X</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=73">Bench Racing</category>
			<dc:creator>winstonsmith</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17649</guid>
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			<title>65 Rivi Clamshell ?</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17648&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:33:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Has anyone here used liniear actuators to open and close the clamshells? I know it can be done because the guy in the YouTube link did it. If anyone knows anything about this plese clue me in.  Thanks Keith 
  
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKTAVWYfSnE&feature=related]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Has anyone here used liniear actuators to open and close the clamshells? I know it can be done because the guy in the YouTube link did it. If anyone knows anything about this plese clue me in.  Thanks Keith<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKTAVWYfSnE&amp;feature=related" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKTAV...eature=related</a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=111">Shop Talk</category>
			<dc:creator>BinderRod</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[1995 Buick Park Ave. turns over but won't start]]></title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17647&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:59:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Thought it was a key pass failure. Had a mechanic look at it and he said it has fuel pressure and spark and it would not have either if it was key pass failure. He checked to see if it jumped time but it didn't. He said it has to be the computer or ignition module. He also checked the ignition switch and said it was good. The previous owner had a new ignition switch, fuel pump and fuel filter installed at a Buick dealer about a year ago. I would greatly appreciate any advice anyone can give me...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font face="Arial"> Thought it was a key pass failure. Had a mechanic look at it and he said it has fuel pressure and spark and it would not have either if it was key pass failure. He checked to see if it jumped time but it didn't. He said it has to be the computer or ignition module. He also checked the ignition switch and said it was good. The previous owner had a new ignition switch, fuel pump and fuel filter installed at a Buick dealer about a year ago. I would greatly appreciate any advice anyone can give me on this.</font></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=88">1980 and up Buick Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>kmeyer23033</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17647</guid>
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			<title>1969 Wildcat Suspension Options.</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17646&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:17:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 1969 4 door Buick Wildcat with a 430 engine and a 3 spd automatic trans. 
  
Im currently restoring the car but i am also thinking about parts etc. 
  
One thing i would like to install is much stiffer springs and a more sport's orientated shoch/damper. Maybe even a larger dia roll bar. 
  
Who can supply this stuff? can i use parts from other b-body gm cars etc? 
  
Im in N.Ireland so online sites etc that ship worldwide are perfect.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 1969 4 door Buick Wildcat with a 430 engine and a 3 spd automatic trans.<br />
 <br />
Im currently restoring the car but i am also thinking about parts etc.<br />
 <br />
One thing i would like to install is much stiffer springs and a more sport's orientated shoch/damper. Maybe even a larger dia roll bar.<br />
 <br />
Who can supply this stuff? can i use parts from other b-body gm cars etc?<br />
 <br />
Im in N.Ireland so online sites etc that ship worldwide are perfect.<br />
 <br />
Thanks in advance.<br />
 <br />
Tyrone.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=86"><![CDATA[1960's Buick Tech]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Irishmofo101</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17646</guid>
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			<title>Titanium Rods</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17645&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:02:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Has anyone considered titanium rods? To me there's an advantage, with approx 30% weight saving compared to the best steel rods. It's the rotating and reciprocating masses that will break the engine under high RPM's  
  
And, titanium rods will last forever without fatigue, unlike aluminum rods. Aluminum is fine for short-term racing, but it will eventually break under sustaining loads. So if the engine sees any street duty, the rods need to be steel or titanium. And there's an added benefit, as...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Has anyone considered titanium rods? To me there's an advantage, with approx 30% weight saving compared to the best steel rods. It's the rotating and reciprocating masses that will break the engine under high RPM's <br />
 <br />
And, titanium rods will last forever without fatigue, unlike aluminum rods. Aluminum is fine for short-term racing, but it will eventually break under sustaining loads. So if the engine sees any street duty, the rods need to be steel or titanium. And there's an added benefit, as you don't need to make the big end as bulky as with aluminum (no need for clearancing).<br />
 <br />
I contacted a local (Finnish) manufacturer of titanium rods, Tylite, but their forging blanks are not long enough. And they claim billet titanium rods are a waste of time - they need to be forged and heat treated.<br />
 <br />
I haven't contacted other mfg's yet, but I wonder if anyone else has. I think in the US there are suppliers like Saenz, Crower and Pauter, while in Europe there's Arrow, Pankl, and Tylite (which was a no-go)</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=91">Straight Eights!</category>
			<dc:creator>Jyrki</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17645</guid>
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			<title>1965 Buick Lesabre possible frame swap</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17644&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:52:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, Can anybody give some info as what other G.M. frame would slide under my 65 2dr lesabre .Just may need to keep my eyes open as my frame is getting really thin around the area of the door & frt fender .I could use some insight about repairing verses replacing whole frame .The car is probably a # 7 daily driver ,all orig. Wisconsin rust underside though .Thanks for anyones input Bucmaster  Ps Are making gussets possible]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, Can anybody give some info as what other G.M. frame would slide under my 65 2dr lesabre .Just may need to keep my eyes open as my frame is getting really thin around the area of the door &amp; frt fender .I could use some insight about repairing verses replacing whole frame .The car is probably a # 7 daily driver ,all orig. Wisconsin rust underside though .Thanks for anyones input Bucmaster  Ps Are making gussets possible</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=111">Shop Talk</category>
			<dc:creator>bucmaster</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17644</guid>
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			<title>Best year 350  to rebuild</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17643&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:04:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I put a 78 model Buick 350, smog motor, in my 71 Jeepster, to replace the oddfire 225. The engine has an unidentifiable rattle in it. It was gone through by an unkown builder. New rings, bearings, cam & lifters etc. It runs okay, with the exception of the rattle, that I cannot pinpoint. It literally, sounds like a diesel, when started cold. It gets better as it warms up, but, does not go away. It has been diagnosed as possibly a cracked piston skirt or a loose wrist pen.  
Anyway, I would like...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I put a 78 model Buick 350, smog motor, in my 71 Jeepster, to replace the oddfire 225. The engine has an unidentifiable rattle in it. It was gone through by an unkown builder. New rings, bearings, cam &amp; lifters etc. It runs okay, with the exception of the rattle, that I cannot pinpoint. It literally, sounds like a diesel, when started cold. It gets better as it warms up, but, does not go away. It has been diagnosed as possibly a cracked piston skirt or a loose wrist pen. <br />
Anyway, I would like to buy another engine to rebuild. My question is, what year has the best parts, like aluminum rockers, most compression, best cam etc.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=93">215, 300, 340, 350...</category>
			<dc:creator>mojerry</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17643</guid>
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			<title>getting beat by vw rabbit</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17642&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:49:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i want my car to be a racer its an electra 2 door 1976 i plan to make it 4 speed and probably ford rear end i need to get rid of the emission pollution stuff and i want to know what should i get to have 500 hp 600 lbs torque</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i want my car to be a racer its an electra 2 door 1976 i plan to make it 4 speed and probably ford rear end i need to get rid of the emission pollution stuff and i want to know what should i get to have 500 hp 600 lbs torque</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=96">Idle Chat!</category>
			<dc:creator>ben455ss</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17642</guid>
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			<title>1976 455 i want my 510 lbs of torque</title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17640&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:15:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i want to know what i need to get those horses back and most of all torque. i already have dual exaust whats next:angry:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i want to know what i need to get those horses back and most of all torque. i already have dual exaust whats next:angry:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=111">Shop Talk</category>
			<dc:creator>ben455ss</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17640</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Need a 3 groove '63 401 crank pulley]]></title>
			<link>http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17639&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:49:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 1963 401 with a short water pump that has a 3 groove pulley and I am looking for a 3 groove crank pulley.  
 
This motor is going in my 29 RPU hot rod and if anyone has a 2 groove set I would sure like to go that way as I will only be running the water pump & generator. 
 
Any idea's on place to get some! :bgrin:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 1963 401 with a short water pump that has a 3 groove pulley and I am looking for a 3 groove crank pulley. <br />
<br />
This motor is going in my 29 RPU hot rod and if anyone has a 2 groove set I would sure like to go that way as I will only be running the water pump &amp; generator.<br />
<br />
Any idea's on place to get some! :bgrin:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.teambuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=76">Nailhead, 264, 322, 364, 401, 425</category>
			<dc:creator>old28</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17639</guid>
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