http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php Featuring, Buick performance, bracket racing, and restoration, with the Buick straight 8, nailhead, and second generation V-8s, Buick classifieds. en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:13:43 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=101 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:35:33 GMT The pan was removed from the engine and the small dent removed. New oil and filter (again) and now it sounds much better while running.

Russ also built the dual exhaust to drop down and pass through the heat shield tube he installed earlier to protect the master cylinder. It looks very nice and sounds great with twin 22 inch Smitty style mufflers.

I don't have pictures of the system yet but will take some when I have the left tail pipe built. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=101 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=100 Sat, 07 Nov 2009 21:27:05 GMT We have installed the master cylinder and run the brake lines to the front brakes. We have also plumbed the vacuum line from the intake to the power brake booster using steel line as a rubber hose might collapse. Image: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3518/4074843709_543b174fb6.jpg The master cylinder was moved to the outside of the frame in order to provide clearance for a dual exhaust system. The exhaust will run through the center of the large tube which will act as a heat shield... We have installed the master cylinder and run the brake lines to the front brakes. We have also plumbed the vacuum line from the intake to the power brake booster using steel line as a rubber hose might collapse.



The master cylinder was moved to the outside of the frame in order to provide clearance for a dual exhaust system.

The exhaust will run through the center of the large tube which will act as a heat shield to protect the cylinder assembly.



The brake proportioning valve was mounted on the frame and lines fabricated to connect the valve to the master cylinder and front brakes. The rear brake line still needs to be installed.



In this picture the old brake linkage can be seen. The tab from this end piece was cut off and welded to the brake lever directly so the power booster could be moved outboard enough to clear the dual exhaust.

It is also possible to see the modifications made to the original frame. The booster mounts to a new plate welded between the frame rails.



An aftermarket fuel filler door for a pickup was bolted into the floor to provide access to the master cylinder.



With the door open it is easy to check the fluid in the master cylinder. The steel line providing vacuum to the booster is just visible in front of the cylinder.



Looking from the side of the car the booster hangs down below the frame by about 2 inches. A skid plate will be built to add some protection.



While we were building new lines some were made up to run from the transmission to the front of the car where the transmission cooler was mounted to the core support behind the bumper.



We also added a clutch fan that I had purchased to go on the 1963 Ford but it wouldn't fit due to installation of a larger radiator than stock. The bolt spacing is the same as Buick.

This clutch fan was used on air conditioned cars to provide more air flow at slow speeds. With this fan the engine should stay cool in traffic.

We did run into one small problem when the engine was started. A loud knocking noise was eventually traced to a rod bolt hitting the bottom of the pan.

Look at the small crease in the front section of the pan in the following picture. We did not notice this or if we did never thought it would be enough to bother anything. The clearance is so tight it just clears when not dented. Who knew!

]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=100 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=99 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 03:33:09 GMT The front disc brake upgrade was done using the bracket kit from Scarebird and new rotors, calipers, bearings, seals and flex lines from South Side Brake & Clutch. The total cost of all the parts was about $850.00 but that could have been reduced by using used parts rather than purchasing everything new.

After removing the old drum and backing plate the caliper bracket was bolted into place using the proper grade 8 bolts to attach the steering arm and new cotter pins installed.

At this point it would have been nice to try the caliper with the pads as the bracket was just a little tight and needed to be touched up with a file in order for the pads to slide in. This needs to be done lightly as the pads will "clunk" when braking while changing direction if too much metal is removed.




The rotor was installed after slipping the seal adapter ring supplied by Scarebird onto the spindle. The instructions don't say which side goes on first but one side has been machined to fit the spindle radius so that goes to the spindle base. This ring is a very tight fit so if it was installed wrong it would be hard to remove.

The flat washer for the 1955 buick is a little too large to fit inside the grease cap and a new one for the 1971 to 1976 Buick rotor was not available so the old one was turned down on the lathe to fit.



The new caliper for the 1990 to 2002 Astro all wheel drive van came with new mounting bolts and it was bolted into position. Not shown in this picture is the new flex hose.

The hose came with copper mounting washers and a new hollow bolt but did not fit into the frame bracket so the bracket hole was filed out slightly to fit.



One more small problem surfaced when the wheel was placed back on the rotor. The old drum used bolts while the new rotor has studs that require nuts, which were purchased for the large sum of $4.37 including tax.

With the wheel and hubcap back in place the car still looks factory stock but should have better brakes to go with the bigger engine.



The hand prints need to be cleaned off and it's apparent from the pictures that this car gets driven. I don't try to keep the underside too clean but if there is anything rusted or worn it gets replaced. In the past I have done the bottom of my cars to look as good as the top but then the car is not pleasant to drive because of all the work to clean it up after each trip.

On a completly different note today is the 26th aniversary of my 40th birthday! I should be too old to keep putting big motors in old cars but I still love it. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=99 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=98 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 06:33:50 GMT The power steering pump was rebuilt using a kit purchased on EBay that included all the "O" rings and front seal along with a good set of instructions.



The kit did not include a new filter ring so the old one was carefully cleaned up and reused.

This is what the pump looks like after rebuilding.



This is how the pump looks when it is attached to the generator.



I also took time to install the restored carburetors on the Ford and they look very nice.



It was nice to find Holley had included a full set of the cork air filter gaskets that are unique to this induction set up. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=98 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=97 Wed, 07 Oct 2009 05:05:55 GMT Since we are increasing the power the brake system needed to be uprated also. We will be installing front disc brakes using the kit from Scarebird. We also wanted to add a brake booster and because of the rear drums a proportioning valve needs to be included. There are a number of adjustable valves on the market but for best results a combination valve works best and has the added benefit of not needing all that adjusting. In order to run a dual exhaust system we decided to move the... Since we are increasing the power the brake system needed to be uprated also. We will be installing front disc brakes using the kit from Scarebird.

We also wanted to add a brake booster and because of the rear drums a proportioning valve needs to be included. There are a number of adjustable valves on the market but for best results a combination valve works best and has the added benefit of not needing all that adjusting.

In order to run a dual exhaust system we decided to move the master cylinder towards the outside of the frame. The original system uses a bell crank to locate the master cylinder closer to the center of the drivers floorboard. We modified the pedal to operate the master cylinder directly. This allows the cylinder to mount about 6 inches further out.

Modified Brake Pedal


This type of modification should only be done by an expert as you would not want the tab to ever break off. The end that the tab was cut off of will be reinstalled to hold everything together like original and the bell crank bolted back to the frame.

7" brake booster


Dual Master Cylinder


On a completely different note I sent the carburetors for my 406 Ford into Holley and they restored them to new condition for a very reasonable price of $220.00 each. They will restore any carburetor not just Holley products and I have been very pleased with the quality of their work. Allow about 10 weeks from the time you send them in.



]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=97 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=96 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 03:41:38 GMT The 1955 Buick has finally received a name suggested because it will be our tow car. The new name is Toby and following the tradition of all our previous Buicks is again a male name. I really don't think a car with an engine like this one has would be too dainty anyway.

We had to modify the oil pan to clear the steering linkage. The original pan had a rear sump but the 401 from the 62 Buick uses a center sump pan. We tried to use the rear sump pan but there is just enough difference to prevent it from fitting.

About 3/4 of an inch was cut from the bottom of the pan.



The drain bung was cut from the old pan and turned on the lathe to re-establish the step area to allow flush welding. It was then tacked on the inside to hold it in place.


The bung was welded solid on the outside then finished smooth like the original.



The new bottom plate was welded on the inside as well as the outside to make sure there will be no leaks.



The finished pan provides plenty of clearance to the steering linkage. The pickup tube was also modified to keep the factory spacing to the bottom of the pan.



The old motor mount brackets were removed from the 322 engine and bolted to the frame with the 1955 Buick mounts. A 1/4 inch flat plate was bolted to the 401 engine and once the engine was mocked-up into position they were tack welded together. The engine was then removed and the plates welded solid to the brackets.



New engine installed for the final time and ready to bolt everything else back on. The a/c and generator brackets will need to be modified as there is a difference in the top of the block also. For 2 engines that look so much alike there have been a lot of changes.



Another transmission cross member was fabricated from channel iron and flat plate to mount the turbo 400 transmission.



Now the rear end from the 1962 Buick can be installed and a new drive line built.

]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=96 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=95 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 04:38:41 GMT The old 322 CID engine that replaced the original 264 CID engine has been removed to make way for the new, completely rebuilt, 401 CID engine. The Dynaflow transmission that I just rebuilt was also removed and will be replaced with a turbo 400 3 speed automatic. We chose the turbo 400 as it is a perfect match for the open driveline rear end from the 1962 Buick that will replace the torque tube rear end. The turbo 400 will also be better for towing as it is stronger than the overdrive... The old 322 CID engine that replaced the original 264 CID engine has been removed to make way for the new, completely rebuilt, 401 CID engine. The Dynaflow transmission that I just rebuilt was also removed and will be replaced with a turbo 400 3 speed automatic.

We chose the turbo 400 as it is a perfect match for the open driveline rear end from the 1962 Buick that will replace the torque tube rear end. The turbo 400 will also be better for towing as it is stronger than the overdrive automatics and with the high rear end ratio of the 1962 rear end it will still give great fuel mileage.

We used this same combination to tow our 18 foot travel trailer in the 70's and got over 9 miles per gallon while towing at up to 80 miles per hour across parts of Kansas.

This picture shows Russ Long who is one of the worlds best fabricators and a very nice guy to boot.


Here the engine is removed and the bay is ready to be cleaned up before installing the 401 engine.


Just an empty space where the old rear end once dwelled. Check out how rust free this car is underneath.


The old torque tube rear end removed.


Hopefully someone will be able to use the parts we have removed as they are in really great condition. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=95 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=94 Wed, 16 Sep 2009 03:38:35 GMT There was a question as to why we are changing the rear end as the torque tube rear end tows better. I would keep the rear end and the Dynaflow transmission if I didn't have a fresh .040 over 401 and rebuilt turbo 400 along with a rear end from a 1962 Buick that does not use the torque tube and keeps the same bolt pattern for the wheels.

The engine and transmission are worth over $10,000 alone and I'm probably getting too old to start a restoration on a later model Buick that will use these parts.

Since I could not sell the 1955 and it's apparently not worth even the cost of the parts I put into it we figured why not use it to tow the trailer on our 50th anniversary road trip.

I don't say this to run down the value of the car. as I feel the 1955 Buick is a real milestone car for Buick, but just to point out that I am not cutting up some rare and irreplaceable automobile. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=94 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=93 Mon, 07 Sep 2009 17:12:33 GMT Since I have not been able to sell the 1955 Buick for a give away price of $12,000 I decided to work on it some more to make it better for towing my 1953 Boles Aero travel trailer.

The rear end is being replaced with an open differential from a 1962 Buick which is 1 inch longer on each side but there is plenty of room in the fender wells so the extra width won't be a problem. We will have to build mounts for a 4 bar system as we are losing the torque tube.

We are also replacing the engine with a 1964 Buick 401 that has been bored .040 over and rebuilt with an early 425 camshaft.

The transmission will be a super turbine 400 from a 1964 Buick with the switch pitch converter.

Here are a couple of pictures of the trailer so you can see what the Buick will be up against. At this point the plan is to use the Buick to tow the trailer over the same route we followed on our honeymoon for our 50th anniversary.






Since these pictures were taken the trailer has been polished and restored inside with all new wiring, insulation, and paneling. we have also added 12 Volt lights and holding tanks along with an on board water supply. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=93 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=92 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 22:59:37 GMT After staying out in the garage half the night before the Buick meet in Puyallup, WA buffing the paint and washing the car in the dark, I was up early to take my wife to breakfast then hurried to the meeting place where there must have been well over 200 vintage Buicks.

I used a new product from Turtle Wax called "Ice" to give the car a coat of wax while people were looking over the car. Most of them had very favorable comments, although some of them were kind enough to point out the wrinkles in the headliner along with the rust and pits on some of the chrome just in case I might not have known about them.

I was hoping to meet some of the people from the Team Buick forum but didn't have any luck on that.

Here is a picture of the Buick in line with some other great Buicks from the fifties.



Across from us was a great Roadmaster with the original upholstery still in perfect condition.



There was a long line of Buicks from the 30's parked along the street.



Here are some more nifty fifties Buicks.



Lots of Rivieras.



And a huge lot full of Buicks from 1959 to the present but I could only get part of the group in my picture.



Now that the Buick is almost complete it is time for it to move on to another home where hopefully someone can take it on to the next level so if anyone knows someone that might be interested please have them give me a call at 253 906 8490 which is my cell number.

I have about $17,000.00 invested in the project so far not counting the hours of professional level work I have put into it.

The old cars value for a 1955 Buick Special Riviera in this condition is $13,950.00 so I would like to get at least $12,000.00 but will consider all offers. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=92 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=91 Fri, 19 Jun 2009 04:44:45 GMT The headliner was removed from the car years ago so even though the bows were there it was impossible to tell where they went. A partial headliner was still installed in the car at Trust Salvage so that was removed to help make a new one and to mark the bows as to location. The old bows were in better shape so after marking them for location they were sanded and painted to keep rust from staining the new headliner. Image: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3557/3616049600_2af8b0b1b4.jpg ... The headliner was removed from the car years ago so even though the bows were there it was impossible to tell where they went. A partial headliner was still installed in the car at Trust Salvage so that was removed to help make a new one and to mark the bows as to location.

The old bows were in better shape so after marking them for location they were sanded and painted to keep rust from staining the new headliner.



Since both sets of side retainer strips were rusted they were cut and pasted together to form one good set then painted with rustoleum and installed.



The visors were covered with the new headliner material and bound with the same material as the carpet to give a nice finished edge.



After cutting, sewing and installing the listing strips for the bows the headliner was installed and has really cleaned up the looks of the interior.

The headliner still needs to be tightened up a little but since the Buick Club meet is on Saturday the 20th it will have to wait.



The front came out a little better.

]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=91 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=90 Wed, 03 Jun 2009 23:41:14 GMT The air conditioning is now installed and blowing ice cold air just in time for the hot weather.

We used the old generator mount for the compressor and Russ just drilled out the mounting holes to 3/8" and welded a tab to help steady the rear. A short length of pipe was cut to to fill the area between the tab and the rear mount hole.



The bracket that came with the kit was used to fabricate a new mount for the generator that places it above the left valve cover.



This new bracket uses the water pump bolts and the front lower head bolt to provide a solid mount. A length of 1/2" bar was welded to the plate that bolts to the head to pick up the rear generator mount. It would have been easy to change to an alternator at this time but I like the old generator look.



The compressor and reciever dryer installed along with all the hoses. Marty crimped the connections when he charged the system.

I know I still need to clean the engine bay but I am trying to get everything installed first.



The belts line up well and everything is quite easy to service. The pullys were removed from a car with power steering and if this car had power steering we would have added one more set.



Russ made one mounting bracket for the condenser from aluminum plate and the other end was mounted using the parts provided in the kit.

All in all this is not too hard a job. I tried to do it in a manner that would allow someone to return it to pure stock if they wanted to.

After driving it today when the temperature reached 88 degrees I don't know why anyone wouldn't want it this way. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=90 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=89 Mon, 25 May 2009 18:09:24 GMT The interior is now complete except for the headliner. The center console turned out very nice and I left room to install a stereo if someone wants one later.



Here are some pictures that show the car in it's almost complete form.























Hope you had as much fun looking at the pictures as I have doing the work. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=89 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=88 Wed, 20 May 2009 23:11:55 GMT The left front seat is complete except for the side cover that still needs to be painted and installed. When it is installed the big wrinkle won't show (I hope)

I still need to cover the center console and make the headliner.

]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=88 http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=87 Mon, 11 May 2009 03:28:55 GMT I know it has been several weeks since I updated the progress of the Buick but it is still progressing.

I haven't had quite as much time to spend on the car at work. This is a good thing as I only get paid if I sell a truck, not by the hour.

The new upper and lower radiator hoses finally arrived so those were installed along with fresh antifreeze (again) I was leary of the old hoses but they held up OK.

The material that was back ordered came in and the right front seat is now finished except for the seat belt and housing.

This seat was very difficult to do and I made several false starts before settling on a method that was usable.



Looking from the left side you can see how the burgundy color lines up with the door. This also matches the rear seat pattern.

The center console still needs to be finished.



I didn't run the burgundy around the side as I felt it would be too hard to get all the pieces properly installed. I think it looks good for an amature job, and great for a driver, but it would never be considered a show car job. ]]> Jim Carmichael http://www.teambuick.com/forums/blog.php?b=87