I started to do a somewhat partial rebuild trying to keep the cost down but yet also intending to upgrade the cam as much as possible without having to replace the original factory rocker assemblies. Possibly considering replacing stock lifters and valve springs, but not to sure whether it is necessary or not? As I started to accumulate the parts I will need such as the cam berrings, rod berrings, and main berrings I noticed that on the bottom of the block where normally the oil pan would be bolted(the flange face of the block)that there are several lines scribed the length of the block and 4 sets of 2 single digit numbers stamped into the face of sealing surface, toward all four outside corners of the block. This is of concern to me because I believe that it is indicitive to previous machine work on the block but I do not know what they represent; this is a list of the pairs of numbers: 6,6 - 4,6 - 5,5 - 3,5 Due to the spacing of the digits in the pairs I am assuming that they indicate seperate values like six and six... and not sixty six... I would really appreciate some ones expert opinion. I am trying to acquire parts for as low cost as possible and I don't want to get stuck not being able to return possibly the wrong size berrings or cam. Also seriously considering taking the block and heads to a shop to have them inspected and tested if necessary. I live in the Salt Lake City Utah area. Is there anybody that could reccomend a reputable shop locally. The other question is which cam would be best suited for a streetable car? I would like to get the very most out of it but still have it driveable. Fuel economy being only a slight consideration in other words I'm not concerned about 2-4 mpg. I would however like to keep the new parts down to a minimum such as I would prefer not to have to replace the valves or pistons and crank. My new parts intended list being as follows: Main berrings , cam berrings, rod berrings, new cam shaft, new double roller timing set(which I already have), and possibly if necessary new valve springs, new lifers and the necessary other items needed to do the valve spring, lifter upgrade.

Thanks

Charle graemlins/finishflag.gif

Hi
I was having the same problem. I decided to have my 430 CI motor rebuilt by a shop. I had long block doneand it cost me close to $2,000 for a stock build, but it is done and was worth it. I am in WI so I can not help you much. I did do searches on the internet to find machine shops and I called and quotes. I also did some background checks on the shops. Good luck

I can't tell from your message whether everything is in good shape. If you are rebuilding a motor that was rebuilt 2 years ago then you will probably be okay, but if your cylinders are out of round or something then you'll end up with a bad result. Long story short: I recommend an experienced machinist going through the motor and do the longblock.

As far as a camshaft goes, I used the TA 212 cam for several years and it worked well, if you want to go more racey then you might want to try the TA 413.

-Bob Cunningham

I'm not able to too be certain about the motors exact history other than I got it from what appeared to be a once well maintained '68 Electra 225 Limited. I found it at a local junkyard and removed it myself. It looked like it had not been run in quite some time but it was very clean compared to the engines I've seen on ebay for sale. When I removed the heads I notice that the head gaskets did not match one another indicating that one had been removed for some reason. The only other thing note worthy was that the timing chain had been replaced with a heavy duty timing chain only problem was that they had used stock sprokets and the chain was more than 1/8" too wide. This I assume must have had something too do with the cars final resting spot. I'm not very sure but it seems that the timing chain being able to walk back and forth on the gears must have caused it to run poorly at best. However it doesn't appear to have done any obvious damage and it must have caused whoever too give up on it and park it for good. There is only a very slight lip in the cylinders from where rings peaked on the downstroke and vitually none on the top. Both heads look the same so maybe a blown head gasket might explain the diffent head gasket on one side but that is just a guess. One last thing the cam showed some wear on some of the lobes along with the cam berrings that is one of my main reasons for replacing the cam.

In my opinion, that block needs to be gone through by a machine shop.

Typically when I have a machine shop go through a motor, I also like to have them assemble it- partly because it serves as a last double-check for the machining, but also because if there is a problem then they have some responsibility.

Just my $0.02.

-Bob Cunningham

If you replace the cam, you will have to replace the lifters. They have to go together.

That settles it, too the shop it goes, heads too. When you say partially assembeled I assume you refer to the berrrings, pistons, and piston rings? Now to find a reliable shop. Still open for suggestions in this department, hate to roll the dice in the yellow pages. I wish I could say money is no object but quite the contrary. None the less peace of mind over backyard bargain still prevails. Thank you all again for your highly valued advice.

Charle graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I'd like to reiterate what Ted had said...don't skimp on the lifters. Lifters wear to the cam, so you don't want to install a brand new cam to be used with lifters that were wore to the old cam...bad news. As far as a reputable company to service your engine, check with the local community college's auto program and get their recommendation...(they might even take it on themselves!!), it'd be a good starting place in lieu of not knowing anyone first hand.

Tony

Tony

Tony