View Full Version : X-country
Bernard 02-17-2005, 11:56 PM Will soon take delivery of an original 1949 Special in Washington State and drive it back to Pensacola, FL, a distance of over 3,000 miles.
This is a 40,000-mile car which has had excellent maintenance.
Does anybody have any idea of the maximum (mechanically) safe cruising speed for 10-hour days, crossing the Continental Divide not considered?
heidigirl 02-18-2005, 10:54 AM everyone will have their opinion, but this a matter of common sense. of course, your common sense is different than my common sense. during the course of your drive, you will either gain or lose confidence in the car and treat it accordingly. at the very least, give it a tune up, change the bodily fluids and INSPECT the brake shoes and cylinders. bring as many hand tools and parts that you can pack. prepare yourself for the worst nightmare of your life so if and when something does fail, you won't be disappointed. having said all of that, drive it at whatever speed you are comfortable. it will not take much time for you to discover the cars' sweet spot. enjoy the road and have fun.
BTW, do you need a co pilot??
39 Century 02-18-2005, 12:14 PM You haven't given a lot of details about what you know of the cars condition. It may only have 40,000 miles on it, however depending on how much it has been driven recently, will determine how suitable it is,in it's present condition to accomplish the journey you speak of.
If it has been sitting for years; it could need attention, in the areas, that Heidi Girl mentions in the above post, along with brakes lines, water hoses, radiator etc.
Hopefully, it is a car that has been maintained and driven recently and frequently. This would be more encouraging.
Are you flying out and driving back, or will you have someone follow you back with another vehicle ?
You may want to spend a few days with the car out in Washington State to determine its condition, get a feel for how the car reacts to certain situations, and then decide if driving it back to Florida is something you want to tackle. Have an alternate plan for getting you and the Buick back, if you decide it's too much. If you haven't driven a 50 year old car lately, in todays modern traffic and highways, it may not be as pleasant a trip as you may be imagining. :eek:
Please, don't think I'm pessimistic and trying to discorage you. I'm not; - just playing Devils advocate, so that you will plan on the side of CAUTION.
On the other hand, if the car is in tip top shape, you have the time, and want an experience of a life time; then GO FOR IT graemlins/hurray.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif
I would only be envious of such a trip ! :cool:
Take a camera, a journal, and enjoy. Take some Tylonol, and Ben Gay, because you hand will be sore from waving graemlins/wavey.gif to all those thumbs up graemlins/thumbsup.gif you will be getting along the way. :D
Make sure you have proper insurance and registration.
P.S. My Ole 39 Century straight 8, seems to run better at 60 than it does at 45, however I don't think with the stock gearing, transmission etc. I would want to run it at 60 all day long for 3000 miles. So if you decide on the journey; take your time, enjoy some US senic routes, instead of all Interstate highways, let the Buick rest now and then and share your stories with us when you get back to Florida. graemlins/hurray.gif
For sure keep us posted! It would be a great story. If you decide to drive it back, start a thread dedicated to the story. You could add to it whenever you had the opportunity (internet cafe etc.) It would be great to follow along!
Bernard, back when it was new, your car would have been typically operating safely at 60-65 out on the open road. In Texas, the speed limit was raised from 45 to 60 in 1941, and then to 70 in 1963. And that was on roads much more primitive than those you will be traveling on.
Speed torque curves on the straight 8s from the 40s shop manuals show them capable of operating at speeds higher than anything legal today.
My dad and others have told stories from the old days about their experiments with testing the top speed of their 40s Buicks. Theirs were Super models with the big engine. The cars in stock form would hit about 93 when floored wide open. [By no means try this kind of test on your car!] Allowing for the smaller engine in the Special and speedometer error, the top speed of the Special would be somewhat less.
The engines did rev a lot faster then due to the higher rear axle ratios. Those engines were relatively weak in HP, while the cars were heavy and were expected to carry 6 passengers and luggage.
More critical than worrying about speed causing damage to the car would be the stopping, maneuvering, and safety aspects of driving a pre-WWII-design vehicle in modern traffic. Remember there are no disk brakes, padded dashes, collapsible steering columns, air bags, anti-lock brakes, power brakes, power steering, halogen lighting, side marker lamps, right side mirrors, thin body pillars, radial tires, or seat belts on 1949 Buicks.
Drivers back then compensated for some of these shortcomings, like the fading of drum brakes in mountain driving. The best advise here would be to not push things. Avoid heavy traffic if possible. Other drivers will still be tailgating, speeding, and weaving in and out of traffic, so maintaining extra distance will help a lot if trouble develops. Should rain, darkness, or fatigue get to be too much, call it quits for a while.
The advice from the others is excellent. Be prepared in case the fuel pump fails in Muleshoe, Texas on a Sunday.
As to the car itself, the 1949 Special is a fascinating model. It was only built for two months at the end of 1948 and was very scarce even when new. At first it was not even supposed to be built that year, and many documents on 49 Buicks don't show it all. Production was stopped early to get ready for the 50 Special, which debuted earlier than normal in 1949. This has led many to state that there were never any 49 Specials built.
I helped one guy in California identify his model correctly from the engine serial number, VIN, and body plate. Everyone he talked to told him the car was titled wrong and was really a 48 model. The 49 Special was about the last car that carried pure pre-war styling. The AACA's monthly magazine did a full-length feature a few years back on the mysterious 49 Special. I can get you a copy if you want.
Bernard 02-22-2005, 01:19 AM Dagnabbit, I wrote a long answer to all the wonderful responses, but I think I hit the wrong button ("post reply" instead of "add reply"), and made it disappear!
So once more:
Thank you all!
Forgetting I posted the question here, I posted it on another page of this board just before finding my first post and your responses, and now I'm embarrassed . . . is there a way to unpost a post, or is it like trying to recall a message left on an answering machine?
Heidigirl, the copilot seat has been spoken for by Bride, but if she backs out, I'll holler for you. Do you make good potato salad and sandwiches?
39, the car gets driven regularly; it has had its fluids changed in preparation for the trip, and today it got "passed" by a GM classic car expert who knows my intentions.
We're flying out; no chase vehicle (a good idea); Bride is a school principal and has a one-week window to goof off, so we won't have time to drive it around locally (another very good idea).
But I'm an old coot and remember the 50, 52, 53, 56, and 60 Studebakers my family had; the 57 Ford; and the 60 Comet, none of which had power steering or brakes, or discs, or rack-and-pinon (the steering wheel of the 56 Hawk stuck and had to be yanked), and I'm sure all that will come back to me.
Todd--now I'm not sure, as I write this, if I'm getting a Special or a Super. Its the one with the taillights on the fenders, not the button-and-spear lights below the trunk lid. I'll have to go back to the correspondence to see which it is.
The digital camera will come with us, and maybe the old Canon 35mm as well. And being a sometimes published scribbler, I'll bring journaling and log materials.
We've already decided to motorfreight a bunch of tools out to the seller in advance of our arrival.
I suppose it may be interesting to some that Martin Sheen is supposed to have ridden in this car, but not to worry--I'll disinfect the seat with elephant poo before I get in.
The trip will be accomplished the week before Easter. I'm afraid Bride's window will necessitate interstates most or all of the way. I plotted a winding path through OR, UT, NV, CO, and so forth, more or less on the diagonal from WA to FL, but when I added the distance of the legs, it was 300 miles longer than I-5 to Bakersfield and I-40 or I-10 eastwardly! Plus we have good friends in Bakersfield we don't see often enough. But I don't know whether it would be better to brave floods and mudslides in southern CA or icy mountain passes in OR, UT, and CO. . . .
Oh--from anyone: what is this I have seen that it is bad to shift in and out of low range when the car is moving?
Bernard 02-22-2005, 01:21 AM P.S.: Todd, I'd be delighted to see the AACA story whether this is a Special or a Super I'm buying . . .
Bernard 02-22-2005, 01:39 AM P.P.S.: It's a Super !!!!
That's super . ..
bluewhale13 02-22-2005, 03:59 AM Bernard,
If you run into problems and you're coming through Kansas let me know. I'd be more than willing to help get you into Wichita to my shop. I hope you don't need my hospitality but if something goes wrong and your coming through Kansas I can let you use my shop at no charge as a fellow Buick owner. Actually that statement goes for anyone crossing through Kansas that might find themselves without a port in a storm . My shop number is (316)263-4199. If you would like my cell number PM me. I've done this sort of run on numerous occasions and a few times I needed a little help along the way from some small shop in the middle of nowhere.
Tom Gallagher 02-22-2005, 10:58 AM graemlins/wavey.gif Hey Bernard!
How Ya Doin'?
The '49 Super sure sounds like One Sweet Ride.
To be forwarned is to be forearmed. It is imperative before making the trip that the Super has been recently greased. That's a big issue with 50's vintage Buicks. Esp. the Wheel bearings. Overheating could also come into play.
Fuel Pumps are something else that comes to mind.
Buick world in Enumclaw WA. 360-825-3787 is a great Vendor /Supplier ask for Jim Macy, they sould have in stock any parts that you may need. I can't say enough good things about them. graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Regarding your question about the Dynaflow. It is NOT a Good Practice to shift from Low to Drive. Just put the Selector in D and drive normally. Low gear is to be used when the going is tough. Through Deep snow of in Sand. It may be used for Steep Grades, Climbing or as an Engine Brake. Shifing from Low to Drive under normal driving conditions in not necessary and could cause problems with the Dynaflow's function. Temember this is a first generation automatic and your dealing with 50+ year technology. graemlins/clonk.gif graemlins/smash.gif
You still have a few weeks to plan and prepare and it should give you plenty of time to resolve any issues. The good thing is no metric tools, and just about every fastener uses fine thread.
I hope that You and Yours have a fine trip and smooth sailing on calm waters.
Best Wishes and Godspeed, graemlins/beers.gif
graemlins/shield.gif Tom Gallagher graemlins/shield.gif
39 Century 02-22-2005, 01:26 PM Bernard said; "But I'm an old coot and remember the 50, 52, 53, 56, and 60 Studebakers my family had; the 57 Ford; and the 60 Comet, none of which had power steering or brakes, or discs, or rack-and-pinon (the steering wheel of the 56 Hawk stuck and had to be yanked), and I'm sure all that will come back to me."
Well Bernard, now that I know a little bit about you; I'm not worried about you or your trip at all ! :D
Just keep your eyes on the road, let the Bride navigate, and you'll do just fine. Let us know all about it when you get back. Amd don't forget to jot Bluewhales phone number down.
And Bluewhale for your hospitality; heres to you ! graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Bernard 02-22-2005, 09:21 PM Bluewhale, that's a mighty generous offer--THANK YOU !
It looks now as though we'll be going south in California to Bakersfield, then across I-40 and/or I-10, but if we take a more norhterly route, I shall definitely try to pass close to Whichita in case we need to careen the car for repairs. And if you ever head southeast to commune with the Mouse, drop me an e-mail first and I'll pass along phone numbers and address. Mine e-mail is about_the_house @cox.net (I added the space to be sure the underscores show up).
Tom, I may be confused, but it seems you're saying it's okay to downshift on the roll, as for engine braking, but better to stop before upshifting. Is that correct?
39, my experience also includes a 58 Peugeot, a 58 TR3A, a 66 Triumph Herald, a 69 Citroen ID19, a Renault 16, a couple of school buses filled with old gold golden agers (they were a hoot on Bourbon Street!), a 1951 VW, a Renault Alliance GTI, and an embarrasingly wide range of Detroit iron . . .
Tom Gallagher 02-22-2005, 10:41 PM graemlins/wavey.gif Hey Bernard,
I'm glad you picked up on my post. I hope I can clarify. :confused:
The Dynaflow can be shifted on the roll, but only when encountering the conditions mentioned. It certainly does not happen on a consistant basis.
The Owners manual states when "The going gets tough" Deep Snow or Sand and when climbing or decending steep grades.
Under normal driving cinditions just put the Gear selector in "D" and step on the Accelerator.
Some operators for whatever purpose develop a habit during ordinary driving conditions or for some unknown reason start out in low and then under acceleration sometimes abusive (like racing) shift into "D" on a regular habitul basis.
This practice is what causes damage and excessive wear to the
Dynaflow Transmission.
I personally would not shift the trans under a heavy foot. I take my foot off the gas, shift and then resume driving.
I do use Low on Steep downgrades, and do not use the gas pedal. I use it as an engine brake as specified in the owners manual.
On Steep downgrades and prolonged heavy braking the Buick Front Brake Drums tend to heat up and EXPAND do to high temperature that develops as a result of friction and the operator experiences "Brake Fade". :eek:
The Drums expand under the heat generated to a point that the Brake shoes cannot make full contact, causing loss of braking power to a point where the operator feels like he cannot stop.
If you Feather the Brakes and apply them in intervuls instead of hard constant braking, you will see a noticable inprovement. The Drums don't heat up as fast and you have some brakes and you don't loose them all at once and don't have time to cool down and recover. It's like ABS only you have to do it manually. ;)
Buick realized the problem and worked on trying to improve the brake every year.
It wasn't until 1958 with the development of the 45 finned aluminum front brake drum that Buick finally responded and made a Significant and noticable improvement.
I hope I have explained these symptoms properly.
Believe you me the first time it happen to me (brake fade) You put your foot into the pedal and it's like there is nothing there. No Brakes at all. It's not a nice feeling and you feel helpless with no control. :eek:
The front Brakes under normal conditions account for about 60% of the Buicks braking power.
Sorry for rambeling on, Bernard, but I hope I made myself clear on the 2 points I'm trying to get accross to You. and trying to express them on paper and get the points accross I find hard to do.
If thing seem unclear or hazy give me a shout and I will try anything I possibly can to clarify the above forementioned conditions.
Regards, graemlins/beers.gif
graemlins/shield.gif Tom Gallagher graemlins/shield.gif
Bernard 02-23-2005, 11:03 PM Tom,
Yes, the issues of using low gear are clearly explained--thank you.
I'm very familiar with brake fade. Once when I was drag racing another Hawk with my dads' 56 Skyhawk, the only way to win the dead heat was to be the second to hit the brakes coming up to a red light at a truck route. I won, but it was the other guy who got stopped. Suddenly it felt like there was a brick under the brake pedal, and I rolled across the truck route between two semi's converging from two different directions. I only had two blocks to go, but I pulled over and shook for ten minutes. (Actually I suspect some water in the brake fluid boiled, but the effect was the same.)
Bernard 02-23-2005, 11:22 PM The purchase and the trip are on! I have received glowing praise for the car from its appraiser (last pre-purchase step), who says he'd drive it cross-country "in a heartbeat."
Tom Gallagher 02-23-2005, 11:33 PM Bernard,
There is a moification you may be able to do. I does involve getting a set of 1959 or 60 45 finned aluminum brake drums which are hard to find with enough surface remaining on them.
Ther is a company in Flower Mound Texas. I believe it is called Wilson Welding and Machine, who are going to reproduce the aluminum drums for many applications. You will have to find a Roadmaster Donor Car at a Salvage Yard to get Roadmaster Backing Plates. (Roadmasters have Larger front Brakes)
There are a few threads on the subject posted about 3 months ago.
Braking is greatly improved still retaining the nostalgic quality's without resorting to modify the front brakes to a modern disc system.
You will have a big push ahead of you. 3,000 miles in a week. Not a walk in the park.
You don't want to push your new adopted baby.
I hope the weather is on yor side and you have a good tail wind.
Regards and Godspeed
Tom Gallagher
Great Balls of Fire 02-24-2005, 01:24 PM I just completed a round trip drive from Portland, OR to Phoenix, AZ (1350miles each way). The car handled beautifully doing 75mph most of the way, except for a fuel problem on the way down. I had installed an electric fuel pump in place of the non-functioning mechanical one. When climbing mountains, the fuel pressure would slowly drop to zero and then the car would start stalling. Once back on a level surface the problem would get better but would not fix itself completely until I stopped and refilled the tank. In Phoenix I found a mechanical pump and the problem has disappeared. If you have a 15 gallon tank plan on stopping every 150 miles or so. This will take some planning through AZ, New Mexico Texas... where towns are spread out.
Mark
http://home.earthlink.net/~56fireflite/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/azroadtrip2.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~56fireflite/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/buickincalifornia.jpg
39 Century 02-24-2005, 03:09 PM Great Balls of Fire!!!!!!!!!!
Is that an 18 Wheeler that you seduced into helping you grab a free picture of yourself ????? tongue.gif tongue.gif :D graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Bernard 02-24-2005, 08:43 PM Tom,
Thank you very much for the tip on the brake drums. I'm printing it and filing it.
(You seem to be very worried about me and brakes. . . I promise my days of playing chicken with red lights are long over . . . )
Great Balls . .. thank you, also, for the input. "My" car has also been fitted with an electric pump to ward off vapor lock, but I think it's in series with the mechanical one. I'll make a point of checking.
A 150-mile range? That's ALL ? ? ?
Tom Gallagher 02-24-2005, 11:15 PM Bernard,
I just figured that with you getting accustomed to your new baby and if you were to travers over some mountainous terrain like the Rockies that you would be prepared.
Regards,
Tom Gallagher
bluewhale13 02-24-2005, 11:36 PM Best Wishes and Safe Travels. Like I said if you guys get into trouble in Eastern Co. or Ks give me a call. Honestly it doesn't matter if it's 3:00 am. The number is 316-263-4199 ofr the shop and if you would like I can email you or PM you with my cell. Hopefully you won't need to use this info, but I'm more than willing to extend a helping hand. That's what this site is all about.
Bernard 02-26-2005, 12:14 AM bluewhale,
Thank you again -- a most magnanamous offer, and deeply appreciated. I'm pretty sure we'll go south to Bakersfield, cross the Mojave, and then drop down to I-10. But you can rest assured I'll have your information with us in case we take a more northerly route.
Bernard
Great Balls of Fire 02-26-2005, 09:42 PM Bernard, FYI, 99 has more stops available than I-5. If your in Southern Oregon near dusk, spend the night at the Rice Hill Exit (just north of Sutherlin) for a cheap clean hotel and some neat photo ops... http://home.earthlink.net/~56fireflite/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/ricehillor6.jpg
Great Balls of Fire 02-26-2005, 09:46 PM 39 Century, No, just a dually pickup in a parking lot. smile.gif I noticed that the pics disappeared here they are again for the curious.
http://home.earthlink.net/~56fireflite/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/azroadtrip_2.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~56fireflite/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/buick_in_california.jpg
Bernard 02-27-2005, 12:14 AM Great Balls,
TY -- will revist the Atlas tonight.
Great car; what's under the hood?
B
Great Balls of Fire 03-04-2005, 12:17 PM 248 +.030 over (original).
Bernard 03-07-2005, 09:12 PM Can one mill the head of a 248 a bit for more power, and not put the valves at risk?
39 Century 03-15-2005, 10:37 AM "The purchase and the trip are on! " Bernard,
How long before you go after the Buick and make the return trip???????????????
Just curious to hear how things will work out!
Bernard 03-18-2005, 06:16 PM Dee and I fly out tomorrow (3/19/05) and beging the return trip Suday, 20th.
Last year my game warden daugher was almost killed in a line-of-duty ATV accident. She's giving herself a Survival Party in northeast Virginia on the 25th. If I-90 over the Sierras is dry Sunday/Monday, we'll go east from there to make the party. If not, we'll go south through California to Bakersfield to see friends, then cross the Mojave and wiggle our way down through Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Louisiana, Missippi, and Alabama. Here are the Mice and Men's plans, which are sure to go asunder at some point:
IF EAST FROM WA:
Stanwood to Moses Lake, WA, Sunday afternoon/evening, 252 miles
Moses Lake, WA to Big Timber, MT, Monday, 564 miles
Big Timber, MT to Vivian, SD Tuesday, 610 miles
Vivian, SD to Des Moines, IA, Wednesday, 581 miles
Des Moines, IA to Mansfield, OH Thursday, 673 miles
Mansfield, OH to Colonial Beach, VA, Friday, 517 miles
Colonial Beach to London, Ky, Saturday, 560 miles
London, Ky to Pensacola, FL, Sunday, 599 miles
If I can talk Dee into missing work Monday, we'll take the Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway from Colonial Beach to London and take 1.5 to 2 days doing it.
IF SOUTH FROM WASHINGTON:
Stanwood, WA to Portland, OR Sunday afternoon/evening, 225 miles
Portland, OR to Weed, CA via Crater Lake, OR and Klamath, OR, Monday, 477 miles
Weed, CA to Bakersfield, CA, Tuesday, 417.70 miles
Bakersfield, CA, to Williams, AZ, Wednesday, 449.62 miles
Williams, AZ, to Albuquerque, NM, via Grand Canyon, Thursday, 459 miles
Albuqureque, NM to Fort Worth, TX, Friday, 597 miles
Fort Worth, TX to Pensacola, FL, Saturday, 688 miles
Apparently illogical routings and stops are for visiting friends along the way.
As of this morning (Friday, 18th), the forecasts for I-90 east out of Washington and across Idaho and South Dakota weren't promising. We'll make the call after one last check from the seller's computer, but right now it looks like we'll be ging south.
Y'all all hold a good thought for us . . . .
Bernard 03-18-2005, 06:19 PM P.S>: We'll be carrying cell phones 850/516-9488 and 850/516-9489, keeping one on until it fades, then turning the other on, since we can't charge from the 6-volt system. If we're passing close by anyone, give us a shout and come out and honk us some encourgement !
(I'll try to remember to ask the seller, a super nice gentleman named Don Schultz, to post a notice here to say which way we headed.)
Tom Gallagher 03-27-2005, 10:08 AM Anyone hear how Bernard is making out on his trip?
sergio 03-27-2005, 06:34 PM I hate to be the pessimist here, but I think that this is a bad idea. I considered driving my newly purchased '63 Rivi from K.C., MO to Tampa, FL. I fortunately found a decent transport company to bring the car down for $600. Trust me, money well spent. I was going to do the drive myself. Counting gasoline, motel/hotel nights, food, airline flight, and the cost of my time, it was seriously a "No Brainer" decision. This was further reimforced when I started working on the car. The electrical system sensed a high impedance load when the headlights were on. So the voltage to the headlight s would fluctuate about 1V. Absolutely, annoying and probably could not have driven the car longer than 15 min in the dark. All four brake cylinders were leaking badly. Power steering hoses were fixin' to go....... I hope my Florida Buick brethren make it home, OK.
39 Century 03-28-2005, 08:33 AM I don't get the feeling that Bernard was looking at this trip from an economy standpoint.
The impression I get is that he wanted the "adventure" of it all.
We all made some valid points pro and con about this trip.
Let's hope his "adventure" is safe, so that he can share his experience with the rest of us, once he is home.
sergio 03-28-2005, 10:39 AM Here's another problem that I can envision... Even if you bring a box full of parts, finding a shop that will install customer supplied parts can be very frustrating. It seems that repair shops don't wont to miss out on the profit margins on the parts. All of the chains, (goodyear, firestone, tires plus, etc.) all refuse to install customer supplied parts. They claim that they are "unable to warranty" the work. I even called a "mom and pop" shop, and even they refused.
Bernard 03-28-2005, 07:26 PM Well, Boyz and Girlz, we're home. I'm going to start at new thread about the trip, and will probably post a day or two's adventures each day for the next several days.
Thanx for all the advice, offers of help, and good wishes!
B
Welcome back! Hope the trip was great and look forward to hearing about it!
Tom Gallagher 03-28-2005, 10:09 PM graemlins/wavey.gif Bernard,
Welcome Back!
Hope everything went smoothly and you are back home safe and sound graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/beers.gif
Regards'
Tom Gallagher
39 Century 03-29-2005, 10:24 AM WELCOME BACK BERNARD
graemlins/hurray.gif
Can't wait to read about the adventure graemlins/finishflag.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Quijote 03-29-2005, 02:59 PM graemlins/rolleyes.gif Bernard:
Dunno if I had the right to appear here, but I'm dying of envy reading all those fabulous experiences of yours.
Only recall you MUST mind how things go when you're Spanish and reach the glory when pay 25000 $ for this incredible beautiful 'Nette '49 ex-Texan. No-no-no-no-no rust NOWHERE. (How's that possible?) Only trouble: Except tacho, no instrument goes. None, yup! Same with the vacuum-operated wiper. Two hell of winters without wipers, oh boy, you can't simply imagine what can be.
Then, two years later, graemlins/shooter.gif , my daughter (envidious, naturrally), bought in the same shop (Paris, France), a beautiful HT Caddy '57, comes to Barcelona 90 mph, came my home and shout: "Hi, daddy, we got a classy too. AND THE WIPER GOES!!!!" I think I shoulda kill her tem.
Those little aircraft wiper engines are impossible to adjust. Sob!
Finally, in Sweden, July 2002, we found a wreck Caddy '48 in a junkyard and bought the entire damn device by just 10 $. :D .
My daughter's ironic expression turned just plain. :rolleyes:
And now seriously, how fortunate all of you are!
Viva 8 en línea!!! graemlins/shield.gif .
Bernard 04-02-2005, 10:52 PM Quijote,
I would have killed my daugher then. . . . lol
We used a liquid on the windshield that so reduces surface friction that water drops draw up into tiny spheres and bounce or roll off, with no sheeting of the water across the wildshield--it is much easier to see when the wipers stop moving---much, much easier. You probably have such a project in Spain. One US brand name is Rain-X, but there are others. Of coures, you cheated and installed an electric wiper system from a Caddy . . . . .(but would still be good to use the product). I still have to use a momentary twitch of my foot on the gas pedal to get a quick sweep out of the wipers . . .
|